Shifting to headpoint in the middle of a Model Wor...
Description
This terrific pitch is best done as one long pitch, skip the first anchors where there used to be a stump(thanks for removing this!!!) The crux is just before the first bolt on the upper section, and is protected by small cams or nuts. Although, I think the lower part is just as hard. This climb is probably damn near impossible for short people, unless you are good at sideways shoulder wrenching dynos.
Location
Just right of Princely Ambitions. You can rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope.
Protection
You can slot an inverted small caribiner in the hole before the first bolt, but may cause rope drag problems. You will want some gear to fill in the gaps between the bolts on the upper section.
If you are short, it may take a little magical levitation. It took me SO long to get this move by getting my feet up really high and reaching for the crimp. I tried this move many many times with the same beta, but somehow i just magically levitated this last time.
The sideways dyno to the ledge is indeed shoulder wrenching; I found that it is possible to climb via stemming moves directly above the first bolt, with the crux being shifting one's weight over to the aforementioned ledge. Although I haven't led it this way, the (first) bolt would be no more than 3 feet beneath you, so it's a viable option for those of us under 5'11".
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