BETA PHOTO: looking up into the awesome bottomless corner of n...
Description
This rarely done gem is definitely my favorite single pitch climb on the lower wall. Runout 5.10 climbing leads to a bolt and some fun 5.11 face moves. Next is a flared hand crack that can be liebacked (hard to place gear this way), which leads to a good rest and a bolt. Step right into a spectacular corner with bolts. Stem and lieback your way to the chains. May be a little reachy, and probably easier for tall people. Lowering is not recommended due to lots of rope drag.
Note: A standard 70 meter rope will not reach the ground if lowering.
Location
This is the next route to the right of Godzilla P1. The orignal pitch called Deal with it ranger goes straight up a chimney where Natural log cabin cuts right into the bolted corner.
If you aren't 6'3" and built like a bear as Jesse is this route is going to feel hard for the grade...5.11c is defintanly a sandbag...not as bad as some sandbags at Index, but definantly up there. And the first 30 feet is 5.10 R/X...though feels more PG-13/R.
It also seeps like crazy till it's had a solid week in the sun.
I love this climb, but vis-a-vis the R/X rating: I've always climbed it by moving in from the start of Godzilla as opposed to the direct start. On one occasion, I broke a hold on the .10 section and took a 30-40 foot fall (within 5 feet of the ground). There is decent gear on the direct version as well but getting to the first bolt is still a little run-out; not horribly, but just enough to make it exciting! Build your confidence a little before you try to lead this one.
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