A fun, short, steep thin crack near the quarry area. Distinct cruxes on thin fingerlocks and highsteps with good pro on small cams and nuts makes this fun. Up until yesterday (3/12/06), this was a 12a. I pulled off the big jug on the route at the end of the day, though. What's really scary is everybody has been yarding on the thing for years - it's the best hand and foot on the route, and a great spot to place gear. It was a 50 lb. block held in by mud. Wow.
So the crack now awaits a first ascent! Get after it!
Location
The furthest left route at the Country. Go uphill past Elvis-Nixon, etc. until you are at the start of the quarry. It's the obvious thin crack on the orange, vertical wall with slings on the anchors at the top.
Protection
Thin cams, especially Metolius #1 TCUs and small nuts.
So the route is still .12a, but the process of placing gear is definitely harder and the climbing a bit more sustained. Go do it, a fun bit of climbing.
The Country
RSS Feed
