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Cunning Stunt 

5.10d

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Season: Whenever it's dry
Views: 378 page views

Submitted By: jonah on Feb 27, 2006


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Description 

The second bolted line to the right of the tunnel, identifiable by the fixed pin at the start. Follows a discontinuous line of flakes up a steep face. The crux comes about halfway up at a slabby reach move before getting into a juggy flake that leads to easier climbing above. Sustained, fun, thought provoking climbing. It is exposed and dries quickly, and is climbable in low temps.


Protection 

Bomber new bolts and one fixed pin. Chains at the top.



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By jonah
Mar 13, 2006

The second bolt (third fixed piece, including the pin) is bad. THe stud spins in the hole! Anybody feel like doing a public service?

I think the thing must've been over-torqued when it was placed, because it is a new bolt. Bummer.

By Ryan Triplett
Mar 20, 2006

The route also has a 20-25 foot extension that is fun climbing, however the rock is less than perfect, in fact a bit rotten in places. It climbs the obvious prow (in a contrived way) standing above the first anchors, probably around .10a

By jonah
Mar 20, 2006

Though the above-mentioned bolt needs to be replaced, you can place a yellow metolius in the flake to its left. Don't fall too hard, though. It would suck to have that flake blow.

By 8jimi8
From: austin
Sep 3, 2006

man this route is absolutely delectable. exquisite technique.
ultra classic must do route.

By SketchE
Nov 2, 2007

awesome route, soft for an index 10d

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 29, 2008

It also might be worth noting that if you blow the second clip, you would come damn near close to hitting the deck, if not hitting it. However, the moves to the second clip, though a little thought provoking, are not hard. A great route with a killer crux sequence.