Just to the left of Japanese Gardens is this obvious line of hand cracks and traversing roofs. Start on the ledges above the big stump on the trail and lieback a wide flare for about 10 feet to a short finger crack. Move right into a sweet steep handcrack, up into a wide (6"?) crack that traverses left. Clip the fixed chock before the traverse, and walk a # 5 Camalot to the end if you want to protect this section, or drag will become an issue. At the end of the traverse there is a set of anchors. Skip this and get into the chimney above it. Walk your #5 up this section again until the chimney narrows and you step out onto the face to commit to the perfect handcrack above. You'll hit the "ringing flake" here. Spooky. The handcrack cruises through it to the anchor up above (from which you can TR Iron Horse, too). A 5.11 variation goes through the roof above this anchor.
Protection
Several hand-size pieces (at least double #2 Camalots and maybe double #3s to sew it), a few smaller cams, and a healthy selection of large cams. A #5, while not necessary, would ease the mind a bit.
The full first pitch (5.11b) is one of the best on the lower wall. This pitch has everything you could ever want on a climb. It's the only climb I have ever enjoyed that I place a #3, #3.5, #4, and a #4.5 camalot on.
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