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Great Northern Slab
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Aires 
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Aires 

5.8+

   
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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
Season: Spring through Fall
Views: 461 page views

Submitted By: Addict on Feb 2, 2006


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Description 

Aires is a high quality 5 pitch climb up Index's Great Northern Slab area. This route features an excellent variety of climbing styles, perfect protection, and gorgeous Index granite. Unfortunately, all of the pitches are very short (some less than 30 feet). I've left the rating on this route at 5.8+, but if you're new to Index climbing you are in for a big surprise. This route would easily be rated 5.9+ or 5.10A in Leavenworth.

The approach is a piece of cake. Cross the tracks and follow the trail to the first piece of granite you see. Look for the obvious fistcrack and start here.

Pitch #1 - 5.8 - Jamb up the handcrack which turns into tough flared fists at the crux. Belay on the ledge. 25 feet

Move your belay over to the base of the fingercrack on the climber's right.

Pitch #2 - 5.8 - Jamb or lieback up the thin fingers to tips crack in the left facing corner. Scramble up to the base of the squeeze and belay at the fixed bong. 70 feet

Pitch #3 - 5.8+ - Wrestle and grunt your way up the vertical featureless superslick flared squeeze chimney. This pitch is often wet. Remember to remind yourself that it's only "5.8". Belay on the ledge above. 40 feet

Pitch #4 - 5.8 - Climb the crack up to the roof, then hand traverse to the left with beautiful exposure. Turn the corner then jamb the hand and fingercrack to the big anchor. 70 feet

Pitch #5 - 5.7 - There are 2 options for this pitch. I will describe the left one which is much better. Scramble up to the tree, then angle up and to the left towards the arete. Look for 2 bolts above you. Fun blancy slab moves bring you to the anchor at the top of the wall. 90 feet

Descent: Rap the Great Northern Slab route. Only 1 rope needed.


Protection 

1 each cams smallest Alien to a 3 Camalot
Extras in thin hands to hands are nice for pitch #4
1 each small nuts
60 meter rope



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By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006

A fun climb.

By sqwirll
From: Woodinville, WA
Jul 9, 2007

The buttlips chimney is pretty burley for 5.8. I'd sure like to know the sequence to keep it under 5.10.