Overhung climbing on mostly positive holds leads over a bulge to very continuous micro-edging on the more gradual headwall. Extremely thin at the crux. This is quintessential Index sport climbing: thin, desperate, and requiring an absolute fusion of poise and raw power. Awesome!
Location
This is the left of two routes and a number of variations that begin on the wall just left of the obvious arete (Biology of Small Appliances). The route continues more or less straight up the wall, while two variations (Raggedy Andy, .12a *** and Raggedy Ann, .11d ***) take off from the 5th and 6th bolts, I believe. They end at the Young Cynics anchor.
A 60m rope will get you down from the top.
Protection
10 bolts, perhaps? Bolted anchor. Some of the hardware continues to age. Status of anchor unknown as of '08, but I believe it had chains.
RSS Feed
