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Horsethief Butte


Horsethief Butte

Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 20, 2006
Administrator: Peter Franzen

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BETA PHOTO: The trailhead sign, looking Southwest. Mt. Hood i...


Description 

A fun Columbia Gorge destination with a nice variety of top rope climbs and boulder problems. This picturesque area on the Washington side of the river sits atop the basalt columns of Horsethief Butte; a trail circumnavigates the butte and a handful of trails snake through the corridors that hold most of the exposed rock.

The basalt here is generally of good quality and has some fun features, but be wary of loose blocks. The tops of many of the boulder problems have some loose chunks on them, and there are undoubtedly plenty of ticking time bombs on top of the top rope areas.

No bolts are allowed here so be sure to bring a trad rack and plenty of long slings if you're going to be setting up topropes. There are probably a couple hundred toprope climbs so pick out a line that looks good and go for it.


Getting There 

Take I-84 East from Portland to The Dalles. Cross over the bridge to Washington and take a right on Hwy. 14 after a mile or so. Go a few miles (past the state park with Horsethief Lake) and park at the pullout for the Horsethief Butte Trail. The bulk of the bouldering is on top of the butte along with much of the toproping.



Add Photo Photos of Horsethief Butte
Daniel on a bouldery crack.

Daniel on a bouldery crack.

Kate on a fun V1.  The block below the triangular hole is loose but secure enough to use.

Kate on a fun V1. The block below the triangular ...

Warming up on a nice VB

Warming up on a nice VB

Easy crack problem. Pretty easy stuff, but fun all the same. VB

Easy crack problem. Pretty easy stuff, but fun all...

Sit start. Short, but sweet. Mantle is the crux. Maybe like V2?...

Sit start. Short, but sweet. Mantle is the crux. M...

Another shot of easy wall. There is another cool problem on the left edge of the wall up to a mantle on the platform. Fun stuff and good for those that are just starting out as well as warming up.

Another shot of easy wall. There is another cool p...

There are 3 problems on this short boulder. One in the middle with a sit start. Goes up and left, V1ish. One that starts on the left corner goes straight up, V0/+. The other starts with matched hands on the ledge right in front of his knee and goes right and traverses slopers all the way to the right, V1+ or so. I don't know if any of these ratings are accurate, we just cleaned them off and I don't know is anybody else has done these. If somebody does them I'd like to know what they feel they are like.

There are 3 problems on this short boulder. One in...

Sit start. Follow the crack straight up. Don't use feet on the block to the right or it makes it too easy. It's probably something like V1 or V2. Short, like five or six moves, but fun.

Sit start. Follow the crack straight up. Don't use...