Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Forest
Show routes:
Select route...
Abrazos Borrachos 
Aquemini 
B.O.B 
Baby Crackhead 
Baby's Mama 
Balance of Power 
Bulldozer 
Can you smell the gas 
Chewbacca 
Chronomentrophobia 
Da Art of Story Tellin' 
Devastation 
Dining in Hell 
Doja 
Doja Low 
Dojo 
Don't Break the Flake 
Dr. Mario 
Elephant Savant 
Elevators 
Final Aeon, The 
Frequent Flyer 
Gates of Fire 
Gutbuster 
hdr 
High Warm Up 
Humble Mumble 
Ice Cold 
In Too Deep 
Instant Zen 
Jer-Bear's Hug 
Karen's Stuck at Home with the Kids 
Kaya's Krack 
Kicking and Screaming 
Kirby's Last Days 
La Venganza de los MexiDanes 
Left of V3 Crack? 
Levitation 
Liberation 
Lulu's Culu 
Mateo's Mantle 
Mighty "O" Project, The 
Mollusc 
Money shot 
Morris Brown 
Mr. Brightside 
new classic mantle 
No Chaser 
Nose Breaker 
OttieSpottie 
Pressure Drop 
Pyramid Ale 
Quadruped 
Quieres Moss? 
S.S. Face 
Samurai 
Say No to Loose Women 
SDS Left Traverse. 
Sky's Fly Bye 
Sky's Roll in the Ferns 
Stepping Razor 
Stinkin' Slopers 
Summer Solstice 
Sunspots 
Sunspots direct 
Table for 300 
Thanks for the Beta 
Transmission of Light 
Treebeard 
Triple Short 
Underclings and Sidepulls 
Unknown Arete 
V0+ Crack 
V3 Crack? 
V3 Warmup 
Warm Up Traverse 
Welcome to Stankonia 
West forest arete 
Zanarkan Traverse 

Baby Crackhead 

V4

   

FA: gc
New Route: Yes
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4-5 [details]
Views: 416 page views

Submitted By: gabriel cisneros on Oct 8, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: SDS in cave on horizontal roof crack for Baby Crac...


Description 

SDS under the roof as far back as you can go and match hands where the horizontal roof crack widens to a sidepull/undercling. Follow crack out of roof and match on nice hold at lip; heel hook and reach up for sloping lip. Follow sloping lip up and to the right. Mantle up to large hold and top out. Super fun moves and awesome problem!! Named after Squamish's Crackhead due to similarity but smaller and tougher.


Location 

In west forest parking lot walk about 20 meters and then straight up. On the same boulder as Levitation but on the southeast face.


Protection 

Couple of pads and a spotter.



Add Photo Photos of Baby Crackhead
Closeup of the face of Baby Crackhead.  Come out of the cave and climb this face.

BETA PHOTO: Closeup of the face of Baby Crackhead. Come out o...

Hitting the last hold to come out of the roof.

Hitting the last hold to come out of the roof.

<a href='/u/jwt/105806543'>JWT</a> toe hooking to come out of the roof.

JWT toe hooking to come out of the ro...

Gabe exiting the cave on Baby Crackhead

Gabe exiting the cave on Baby Crackhead

Gabe with the heel/toe hook on Baby Crackhead.

BETA PHOTO: Gabe with the heel/toe hook on Baby Crackhead.


Add Comment Comments on Baby Crackhead
Show which comments
By JWT
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 8, 2006

A classic problem with loads of core tension and gymnastic movement. A very unique, aesthetic problem.

By jonah
Jan 29, 2007
rating: V5

GREAT problem. Gave it 3 stars instead of 4 only because of the need to avoid scraping your ass on the ground. Like Bachar Cracker in Yosemite, but a bit harder.