Sam showing the new crip that has to be used since...
Description
The really fun arete/face on the southeast corner of the boulder. Sit start, moves up on edges and pinches using a fun knee bar. Hard moves bumping left onto the face and tossing left and up to a good edge (using heel and toe trickery along the way).
Location
the first problem you come to from the approach.
Protection
Several pads, because if you are flailing on this thing like I am, you're going to crater on your back when your hand blows and your heel is still on...
I did this route about 4ish years ago, right after the clear cut. I can't be sure that it was a first ascent, but we did spend quite a bit of time cleaning it. I never graded it or named it. Jason
FA who knows? Did this early spring of I think '02. Friend said it was FA, but who really knows. Thought it to be fairly solid V8, certainly not 10. On the thought that it was FA at the time, called it Trigger Point. Fun climb regardless!
Consensus does seem to be around 9ish, though I heard the pinch just broke on it. Weird - it seemed solid to me. Who knows - maybe harder or easier now. Fun problem, though! check out this vid of Kelly doing it: http://youtube.com/watch?v=hoxgwH7CY1M
Went and got on this last weekend - the good pinch is gone. Real bummer. Definitely makes it harder to set up for moving to the left sidepull for the throw. Still fun, and a little more challenging.
5 Star Boulder
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