Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Park's Page Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
Climbers on third pitch and at third pitch anchors...
Description
Airy views of the Columbia gorge, good rock, and superb climbing make this route a classic and THE most popular route at Beacon Rock. Almost every climbable weekend will see ascents.
Finding the start of this route can be a challenge. Go down the climbers trail on the East side of Beacon. After turning the corner watch for a rise in terrain. Just past the rise the route starts in a right angling corner.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb up the right leaning corner and then up a crack to a nice ledge. Be careful pulling onto the ledge as there may be loose rocks. Belay from a bolted anchor
Pitch 2: 5.2R Traverse down a few feet and then straight right for a pitch. Belay at bolted anchors. Pro is sparse but the climbing is easy.
Pitch 3: 5.7 From the anchor go straight up and then pull a steep mantle (crux) heading up right on cracks up a slab. Continue up and turn the corner. End on a nice ledge with a nice tree. Please try to not belay off the tree as there is some debate as to its health.
Pitch 4: 5.5 Continue up a series of ledges with short boulder problems. Be careful not to knock rocks off these ledges. A full ropelength will take you bolted anchors. Rappel here with double ropes or. . .
Pitch 5: 5.6 Continue left until you get to a V-notch in the rock. Move up here. There are several options here. Either head up right or go straight up. Belay on boulder.
Pitch 6: From here scramble up 3rd and 4th class climbing up and left through weaknesses in the rock until you get to the paved hikers path.
Pitch 5: To add to the authors good description; there is a stance at the V-notch to set up a belay, which can be the belay for the 4th pitch. Above this spot is a small pine tree that you will want to aim for - just behind it is the off-width that you will use to get up to the long, right leaning ramp. At the top of the off-width and at the start of the ramp you can set up the belay, the 5th overall.
Start the 6th pitch be heading up right on the ramp. There is a bolt about 60 feet up. Clip it and continue right around a corner and onto an exposed and cool face that can be climbed up with bolts or all the way around to the right. (As the author stated, there are other options besides this to gain the summit).
Beacon Rock
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