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Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.
From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.
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Browse More Classics in Washington Pass
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:
North Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600' Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
West Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 600' Silver Star and connected s... : Paisano Pinnacle
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches North Early Winter Spire
East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800' Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
Featured Route For Washington Pass
Beckey Route (SW Face) 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b WA : Northwest Region : ... : Liberty Bell
The Beckey route is a very moderate route to the spectacular summit of the Liberty Bell. The summit is the best part of the route, offering panoramic views of the peaks of the North Cascades, the Wine Spires, and the Early Winter Spires.To reach the climb (~2.5mi), hike up the Blue Lake trail until it breaks into a small meadow and begins to curl east toward the lake. Branch off left on a climbers trail that ascends boulder strewn terrain to the base of the gully between Liberty Bell and Concor...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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