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Washington Pass

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Concord Tower 
Cutthroat Peak 
Kangaroo Temple 
Le Petit Cheval 
Lexington Tower 
Liberty Bell 
m&m wall 
North Early Winter Spire 
Pernod Spire 
Silver Star and connected spires 
South Early Winters Spire 

Washington Pass  


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Location: 48.5123, -120.654 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006
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Washington Pass shrouded in clouds, a little unusu...

Description 

Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There 

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.6 miles from here

45 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',2],['5.8',8],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',10],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:
South Arete   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   South Early Winters Spire
Beckey Route (SW Face)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   Liberty Bell
West Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 600'   Silver Star and connected s... : Paisano Pinnacle
North Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
SW Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   South Early Winters Spire
South Buttress   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 850'   Cutthroat Peak
The Cave Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   Concord Tower
NW Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   Liberty Bell
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   North Early Winter Spire
East Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 800'   Lexington Tower
East Face / Rebel Yell   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
Clean Break   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500'   Silver Star and connected s... : Juno Tower
Direct East Buttress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   South Early Winters Spire
The West Face   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   North Early Winter Spire
The Hitchhiker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900'   South Early Winters Spire
Liberty Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C2     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200'   Liberty Bell
ellen pea   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   m&m wall
Serpentine Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Liberty Bell
The Passenger   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   South Early Winters Spire
Freedom or Death   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Liberty Bell
Browse More Classics in Washington Pass

Featured Route For Washington Pass
Pitch 1.

Thin Red Line (Free Version) 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Liberty Bell
For years this (still) under-appreciated route was one of the go-to routes for northwestern aid climbers looking to cut their teeth. Thankfully for those of us that like to try and climb things with our hands and feet, in 2008, local talent Mikey Schaefer had the vision and ability to unlock a free variation to the one blank pitch. His variation allows the whole line to go free at a relatively moderate grade. While this climb is more or less devoid of steep, clean splitters, it offers pitch a...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Washington Pass Slideshow Add Photo
The Liberty Bell group as seen from below the Wine...
The Liberty Bell group as seen from below the Wine...
The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass.  From ...
The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass. From ...
The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below
The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below
the wine spires as viewed from SEWS
the wine spires as viewed from SEWS
Hwy. 20 and the Blue Lake parking area from the to...
Hwy. 20 and the Blue Lake parking area from the to...
Highline rigged between South and North Early Wint...
Highline rigged between South and North Early Wint...
Washington Pass overview
Washington Pass overview
The hairpin turn from the top of Lexington Tower.
The hairpin turn from the top of Lexington Tower.

Comments on Washington Pass Add Comment
Show which comments
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 21, 2008
We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.
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