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Washington Pass

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Concord Tower 
Cutthroat Peak 
Kangaroo Temple 
Le Petit Cheval 
Lexington Tower 
Liberty Bell 
m&m wall 
North Early Winter Spire 
Pernod Spire 
Poster Peak 
Silver Star and connected spires 
South Early Winters Spire 
Summertime Crag 

Washington Pass Rock Climbing 


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Location: 48.5123, -120.654 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 30, 2006  with updates from SamandHam
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Description 

The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.

Getting There 

From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.6 miles from here

57 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',3],['5.8',9],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',16],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Washington Pass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Washington Pass:
South Arete   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   South Early Winters Spire
Beckey Route (SW Face)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   Liberty Bell
West Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 600'   Silver Star and connected s... : Paisano Pinnacle
SW Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   South Early Winters Spire
North Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
NW Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   Liberty Bell
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   North Early Winter Spire
East Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 800'   Lexington Tower
East Face / Rebel Yell   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
Clean Break   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500'   Silver Star and connected s... : Juno Tower
Direct East Buttress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   South Early Winters Spire
The Hitchhiker   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 900'   South Early Winters Spire
The West Face   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   North Early Winter Spire
Liberty Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C2     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200'   Liberty Bell
Ellen Pea   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   m&m wall
Serpentine Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Liberty Bell
The Passenger   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   South Early Winters Spire
Freedom or Death   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Liberty Bell
Liberty and Injustice for All   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 650'   Liberty Bell
Thin Red Line (Free Version)   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100'   Liberty Bell
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Washington Pass

Featured Route For Washington Pass
Rock Climbing Photo: Southern Man

Southern Man 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WA : Northwest Region : ... : South Early Winters Spire
This interesting route shares the first 4-5 pitches of Direct East Butt of SEWS. It busts out left of the bolt ladder pitch and starts off funky 10a. The quality gets better when it kicks into the headwall pitches. Sustained thin cracks start out in a corner then stays sustained for a couple of pitches, and the belays are vague and not yet fixed. Stephs great report stephabegg.com/home/tripreport......[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Washington Pass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Liberty Bell group as seen from below the Wine...
The Liberty Bell group as seen from below the Wine...
Rock Climbing Photo: The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass.  From ...
The popular backside (westside) of WA Pass. From ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below
The Washington Pass summits cast a shadow below
Rock Climbing Photo: the wine spires as viewed from SEWS
the wine spires as viewed from SEWS
Rock Climbing Photo: Hwy. 20 and the Blue Lake parking area from the to...
Hwy. 20 and the Blue Lake parking area from the to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Highline rigged between South and North Early Wint...
Highline rigged between South and North Early Wint...
Rock Climbing Photo: Washington Pass overview
Washington Pass overview
Rock Climbing Photo: The hairpin turn from the top of Lexington Tower.
The hairpin turn from the top of Lexington Tower.

Comments on Washington Pass Add Comment
Show which comments
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 21, 2008
We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.

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