Washington Pass Rock Climbing
Washington Pass shrouded in clouds, a little unusu...
The Washington Pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5.4-rated South Arete of South Early Winter and to hard 5.12 climbs such as the Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell and the Tiger on M&M Wall. The area also has classic aid routes such as Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.
The area is centered around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway, extending east to the Wine Spires and West to Liberty Bell and the Early Winter Spires. The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.
From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.
Weather station 12.6 miles from here
59 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Washington Pass
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Washington Pass
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Washington Pass:
Featured Route For Washington Pass
Direct East Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WA
: Northwest Region
: ... : South Early Winters Spire
Pitch 1: Rambling 5.6 pitch, go as far as you can until you see a reasonable tree to anchor off of. It was the usual alpine first pitch, some moss, loose rock, and vegetation. Reasonable gear along the way.Pitch 2: 5.8 crack system with various ledges that brings you to the bottom of the large dihedral. Although the pitch is called 5.8, I had a hard time finding the 5.8 move where we went, it felt a lot like 5.6. The pitch definitely had some loose kitty litter rock on it, which made things ...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
From: Las Vegas
Oct 21, 2008
We did a fun linkup of all 5 spires this summer. We climbed the Beckey route on Liberty, North face of Concord, North Face of Lexington, NW Corner of NEWS, and SW Rib of SEWS. We ended up simulclimbing Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, and most of SEWS. It took us approximately 15 hours car to car at a casual pace. Two ropes are beneficial for the rappels off of Concord and Lexington, otherwise you'd have to leave gear. A fun way to get 20+ pitches of moderate climbing in a day.