Washington Pass includes some spectacular and more easily accessible alpine climbs, ranging in difficulty from the South Arete of South Early Winter (5.4) to the ultra-classic Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell (free at 5.13a, otherwise 5.10b A3). The area is comprised (north to south) of Liberty Bell Mountain (7720'), Concord Tower (7560'), Lexington Tower (7560'), North Early Winter Spire (7760'), and South Early Winter Spire (7807'). The quality of the rock is in general great and the summit views excellent. The best season for climbing here is late June through September. Snow and ice might still be present early in the season.
From Twisp, drive north on Highway 20 through Mazama and up to Washington Pass. The highway takes a very obvious hairpin turn just below the peaks. The east faces are best approached by parking at the Washington Pass Overlook and ascending a trail starting across the road from the pullout. The west faces are more easily approached by driving a little further up Highway 20 and parking in the lot for the Blue Lake Trail. The climbers' trail breaks off left from the main Blue Lake trail as it bends right towards the lake.
31 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Washington Pass:
North Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600' Silver Star and connected s... : Burgundy Spire
West Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 600' Silver Star and connected s... : Paisano Pinnacle
Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches North Early Winter Spire
East Face / Rebel Yell 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800' Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire
Featured Route For Washington Pass
Serpentine Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c WA : Northwest Region : ... : Liberty Bell
Great route that didn't seem to see much traffic. First pitch a little mossy but the rest we thought were stellar.Pitch 1 - slab moves heading left into a corner with short 5.8 move over a bulge. Belay above some moss in a corner/gully below obvious steep corner w/ crack. 5.8Pitch 2 - Head up easy handcrack to base of the business. We bumped a #3 to eye level on the start. Seemed to work well for us. Great gear, a bit wide and (for us) pretty physical. 5.11. Pitch 3 - Awesome left ang...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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