Washington Irving 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Erickson, Jim Walsh, Ed Wright, 1969 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Andrew Wellman on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Getting into the dihedral.
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Description This is a one pitch route that climbs a good crack in the back of a low-angle dihedral. It is just to the left of The Unsaid and is a great warm-up for any climbs in the area. The climbing is fun on positive holds and is always well protected.
Protection Standard trad rack. Bolt anchors at the top allow for top-roping subsequent ascents.
Warning Eds. The anchor may be a rope stretcher to rappel with a short downclimb with a 50m rope to the ledge 30 ft up. Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope. Also, if you belay from the ground, do not lower with a single rope!
BETA PHOTO: Eds. Note, this rappel may be a rope stretcher wi...
| Marga Powell getting pro at the start of the steep...
| Moving over the crux move on the route.
| The final high stepping move.
| Gary Schmidt having fun onsighting the pitch of Wa...
| Nick Thompson stemming out 1/2 way up.
| Nick Thompson chilling on the top of Washington Ir...
| Eric makes his way up Washington Irving.
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| Comments on Washington Irving |
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By Holly Barnard Mar 12, 2002
| This a great route for its grade. I would give it 3 stars. The route eats a standard rack, so its good for a beginning [Eldo] leader. You often have the option of shoving in a cam or using more creative nut placements from good stances. Bring some longer runners for lower placements and for the option of tying yourself in at the anchors. You can do a short 5.4ish pitch down and right of the climb in order to reach the belay ledge if you feel like doing something only slightly more interesting than scrambling up. |
By tobias From: CO Jul 10, 2002
| anybody know what the bolted route is that goes on above washington? I jumped on it and definitely hit my ceiling for the day. Must go at 5.12 something? Thanks |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Jul 10, 2002
| The 3 bolt line above Washington Irving is listed as "Atom Smasher 12c" in the latest edition of Rossiter. |
By James Balasalle Sep 23, 2002
| I agree. A great climb for the beginning Eldo leader. It was my first Eldo lead. Protecting the first bulge is a tad tricky, but definitely doable. There are two sets of [bolts] at the top that you can used to rap off, or top rope [The Unsaid]. |
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Dec 10, 2002
| This route was the subject of an amusing episode in John Long's book "Close Calls : Climbing Mishaps & Near-Death Experiences." If the pseudonym-protected subjects of the story peruse this site, would they care to reveal themselves? |
By Mike Epke From: Denver, CO Jul 21, 2003
| Super fun route with some committing moves for a 5.6, but as said before the route eats the pro up and is a touch harder than Calypso for the same grade. deserves three stars |
By James Garnett From: Bellingham, WA May 8, 2004
| Don't need anything bigger than a #2 Camalot here; a full set of nuts and a few tricams would probably suffice. |
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO May 15, 2005
| Easier than Duh Dihedral but still requires a couple of thoughtful moves, though the cruxes are easy to protect. Definitely worth doing if in the area. |
By Lee Smith Aug 12, 2007
| Great route for new trad leaders but one suggestion: be very aware of what you are placing gear into. There is a section approximately half way up that has some very loose blocks and hollow flakes. It is easy to place gear in this section but just as easy to pull it out! Also, if you belay from the ground this route is way longer than the 100 feet listed in the description. |
By Mark Cushman From: Cumming, GA Oct 21, 2007
| I agree with James, you don't need anything bigger than large hands for this route. It protects very well with passive gear, too. |
By J. Fox From: Black Hawk, CO Mar 10, 2008
| Definitely a good route for beginning trad leaders (like me) wanting an intro to Eldo. This was/is harder than any .6 I'd done previously. It makes you think. I placed everything from a tiny stopper (#4) all the way up to a #4 Camalot. I'm sure I was over protecting though, since I'm kinda new to leading trad. Fun route though overall. |
By Abram Herman From: Golden, CO Jun 6, 2009 rating: 5.6
| Fun climb with good mix of holds. Easily protected, didn't need anything larger than #3 Camalot. Seems much easier to make the short climb up onto the ledge than to belay from the ground; we had about 5 ft. left to the middle marks (w/o stretch) when I led on a 60m, so from the ground I don't think you could lower/TR from it safely. |
By Claire Rose From: Boulder, CO Jul 1, 2012
| This was a great route for my first time climbing and first pitch. Easy to protect from what I understand. |
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