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The Warwarsing Boulder has a good mix of easier problems as a couple of V4s and a V5. This is a great place to go if you're worried about being rained out, just looking to get a few laps in the last light or can't find a spot in the West Trapps Lot and can't bring yourself to do the Stairmaster for the 1000th time. The big downside is its proximity to Route 44/55 and the associated car noise.
The Warwarsing boulder is located near the entrance to the Wawarsing parking lot between the lot and Route 44/55. See the parent area for a more detailed description of the approach.
A Quick Note About the Problems on the Back of the Boulder
Greene and Russo, mention only three problems on the back of the Warwarsing boulder, when there are at least 5 obvious lines. U-Turn is easily identifiable, but the exact locations of Guardrail and Hairpin Turn are significantly less so. The included drawing and descriptions provide little illumination. Hairpin Turn's description reads, "Start on low horizontal. Climb face." Really? Thanks. Guardrail includes the instruction, "Sit start on low edges, climb small face. Climb straight up the corner." There's nothing on that side of the boulder that I would really call a corner. There is a vertical crack, but no real face below it. I've attempted to correctly identify these climbs and have inserted two additional lines. I've also regraded them, since several of the problems are significantly harder than Oncoming Traffic (originally V1 in the book, now downgraded to V0) on the front side of the boulder. If you have information or input as to whether or not I've correctly marked the climbs, please get in touch with me and I will make corrections. Also, please submit grade suggestions for all these problems and I will amend the published information accordingly.
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Featured Route For Warwarsing Boulder
Greene and Russo instruct "Climb straight up the corner." I'm not sure that there's any corner anywhere on this boulder. Maybe we'll just call the vertical crack a "corner." Suffice it to say that I'm completely confused by their description.Anyway, start sitting with your hands in the low horizontal at the far right side of the back of the boulder. Climb up the crack, face and nose to your right to top out a short distance above....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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