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Warwarsing Boulder

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Hairpin Turn 
My Brother Calls Me Jeff 
Oncoming Traffic 
Rumble Strip 
Slippery When Dry 

Warwarsing Boulder  

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Elevation: 800'
Location: 41.7364, -74.1848 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 844
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Sep 23, 2009
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Partly Cloudy
50° | 29°
Partly Cloudy
62° | 49°
Chance of Rain
62° | 44°
Partly Cloudy
45° | 29°
Partly Cloudy
51° | 33°
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BETA PHOTO: The Front (East side) of the Warwarsing Boulder: 1...


The Warwarsing Boulder has a good mix of easier problems as a couple of V4s and a V5. This is a great place to go if you're worried about being rained out, just looking to get a few laps in the last light or can't find a spot in the West Trapps Lot and can't bring yourself to do the Stairmaster for the 1000th time. The big downside is its proximity to Route 44/55 and the associated car noise.

Getting There 

The Warwarsing boulder is located near the entrance to the Wawarsing parking lot between the lot and Route 44/55. See the parent area for a more detailed description of the approach.

A Quick Note About the Problems on the Back of the Boulder 

Greene and Russo, mention only three problems on the back of the Warwarsing boulder, when there are at least 5 obvious lines. U-Turn is easily identifiable, but the exact locations of Guardrail and Hairpin Turn are significantly less so. The included drawing and descriptions provide little illumination. Hairpin Turn's description reads, "Start on low horizontal. Climb face." Really? Thanks. Guardrail includes the instruction, "Sit start on low edges, climb small face. Climb straight up the corner." There's nothing on that side of the boulder that I would really call a corner. There is a vertical crack, but no real face below it. I've attempted to correctly identify these climbs and have inserted two additional lines. I've also regraded them, since several of the problems are significantly harder than Oncoming Traffic (originally V1 in the book, now downgraded to V0) on the front side of the boulder. If you have information or input as to whether or not I've correctly marked the climbs, please get in touch with me and I will make corrections. Also, please submit grade suggestions for all these problems and I will amend the published information accordingly.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.8 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Warwarsing Boulder

Slippery When Dry V1 5  NY : The Gunks : ... : Warwarsing Boulder
The problem starts on a low horizontal below a thin right facing edge and a small crimp one foot left of it. Shoot up and left to a small pinch a few feet up and left, a thin right hand after that will get you to the top-out. Feel free to use or not use the small edges above the start. This route is not listed in Greene and Russo's guide unless this is actually Hairpin Turn. Please climb and grade this problem so a consensus grade can be arrived at....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Warwarsing Boulder Slideshow Add Photo
The Back (West side) of the Warwarsing Boulder: 1....
BETA PHOTO: The Back (West side) of the Warwarsing Boulder: 1....

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