Warriors Way 5.12c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 750 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Arno Ilgner |
| Season: | Spring-Fall |
| Submitted By: | jgallagher on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Lookin down one of the headwall pitches
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Description This route is one of the best routes in the state. Wait, make that the east coast. It's steep, sustained, and well protected with high quality climbing.
P1: Climb up the lower angle slab more or less straight up passing two bolts to a large overhang with a bolt in it. Clip the bolt and do a 5.12 mantel onto the slabby face above. Follow face past one bolt and gear to a bolted anchor. (5.12b)
P2: Pumpy and sustained. Follow the bolted line past intricate steep climbing with awesome movement. Bring a #1 camalot (5.11+)
P3: Another fun but very moderate pitch. Although this is nearly all bolted falling would still be bad due to the low angle nature and well spaced bolts. Bring a few pieces of gear (5.8)
P4: Traverse straight right off of the belay to the base of some large flakes. Be very careful on this pitch because every feature you touch is a HUGE flake that could be pulled of if you aren't careful. This is the most dangerous pitch of the route despite being very easy. (5.4)
P5: The start of the headwall! Funk your way up a short left facing corner. Then start traversing right past bolts though extremely overhanging rock and into a moderate boulder problem pulling onto the next face. Follow this face past small crimps and sustained face climbing up to the bolted belay. Bring purple through yellow tcu (5.11c)
P6: One of the best pitches on the route! Get stood up off the belay and fire through the nearly horizontal overhanging via jugs and heelhooking. Pull onto the overhanging face above and climbing through a couple bands of blank rock using big moves and a few poor holds. Pumpy but juggy climbing leads through the remainder of the bolts. Bring only quickdraws (5.12b)
P7: The main pitch of the route and most definitely the hardest. Steep climbing through big holds leads to a crux low on the pitch. This crux involves slopey crimps and a big move. Easier climbing leads to a short traverse out right and the start of the hardest sequence on the entire route. Start off with a big move between slopers and get ready for the blankest section of blank rock you will ever see. Figure this section out and then traverse back left to a bolted anchor. Again only bring quick draws (5.12+)
P8: The victory pitch. Steep exposed yet easy climbing at the very top of the headwall. Climb past a possible gear placement and three bolts to an anchor up and slightly left. (5.7)
P9: Guide book calls it 5.5 but it is much easier than that. The only move that is close to 5.5 is protected by about 5 different rappel bolts. The rest of it is low angle enough to walk up if you were so inclined
Location Under a large roof with a bolt on the underside of it. Just right of Little Miss Dangerous and left of the Great Aha
Protection Lots and lots of bolts. Possibly a #4 for the first pitch to protect clipping the third bolt but i wouldn't recommend it. You wouldn't fall. other than that a rack of singles from purple tcu to #2 (good for the third pitch but without it, you are just faced with a typical whitesides moderate climbing runout so its optional). The hard pitches are basically sport routes. All belays are bolted and have chains on the bolts
More headwall goodness
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The start
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Yeah, its steep
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Again with the headwall
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Looking out at the rest of the wall. There are peo...
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