Warren - Johnson 5.10c X
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Robert Warren, Mike Johnson, 1984 |
| Submitted By: | Chris R on Jun 6, 2002 |
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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>>
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start just north of the Cowboy Boot Crack ledge at ground level. Follow 4 drilled angles in a direct line. Very serious groundfall potential plus the unstable holds makes this a route I don't recommend leading. I set up TR by climbing Cowboy Boot Crack to its high anchors, rappelled directly down from there to a small belay station beneath the giant pinnacle. I used a 60m rope on TR, but I think a 50m would work. I enjoy climbing the line, though anyone who prefers their holds be solid may not. It is difficult climbing for the grade, although on TR it doesn't really matter.
Protection 4 pins, spaced very far apart. This line is for the very bold leader. Others should TR.
| Comments on Warren - Johnson |
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By Brian T. Wandzilak
Nov 12, 2003
| S&$#!! If I ever see someone leading this route I am going to go ahead and call 911 and get them on the way. I say that I with a fair amount of seriousness too. Anyways, here is my two cents on the route. I would definitely lead up one of the routes on the Cowboy Boot face (Cowboy Boot Crack-5.6, Trigger Finger-5.9/5.10, Unzipped-5.7). If you climb either of the first two, rap to your left under the rock to two large eyebolts. Then rap down the face to the ground. The route more or less starts in the middle of the Winter Warmer bouldering area. It is a meandering, sustained route that goes through a brief phase of semi-solid rock at the bottom to crap to the solid Boot face rock. Wander back and forth following what holds you can. Like I said, it seems that there is a fair amount of traversing in the bottom 2/3s of the route. To be fair there is a good share of really fun, grin and bear, go for it type moves. Just be careful as a belayer, expect a nice GoG sand shower during your belay.But for the most part a route worth doing only once, if you are bored. |
By kevin jenkins
Sep 4, 2004
| This is not a route for the timid. please - if you plan on leading this, take tidrick's up and rap to Warren Johnson. long pants and shirt are highly recommended, and still expect to be a walking, bloody-meat stick at the end of the day. truly, it is fairly well protected, and will force you to be comfortable with your feet. feel free to stretch long and across for those holds - if they look good, they usually are. not attempt if you don't want your car seats to have blood stains on them. finish with a cold beer and hot pizza. |
By Chris Mack
Sep 27, 2007
rating: 5.11- X
| It is harder than .10c, and leading this would be pretty moronic. Just TR it. |
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 22, 2007
| I seem to remember Robert Warren did the first lead of this. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 23, 2011
rating: 5.10+ R
| Great route! Hard, sustained, intricate - a great example of Garden face climbing. Usually don't tick a TR, but I can't imagine I'd ever lead this one. Can't agree with the X status though; a fall could result in great bodily harm, but not death.
FA: Robert Warren, Mike Johnson, 1984. |
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