Warpath Dome is described in Bob Kerry's 1997 guide Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona. It doesn't get much traffic despite having the classic route Warpath.
The main face of this granite dome faces west, and gets shade until the afternoon. The rock quality is good. The Crackathon Area is on the right/southwest flank of Warpath Dome.
The crag itself doesn't have access issues, but the approach could; see below.
To drive to this area, take Middlemarch Road from Tombstone for about 10 miles (or, from the east, come over Middlemarch Pass), then turn left on the Forest Service Road (687?) and follow it north along the west side of the Dragoons for about 30 minutes. Shortly before the road swings right and goes east into West Stronghold Canyon, look for a short dirt track that branches off to the right at a little rise. Park here. You can confirm that you are in the right spot by finding two barbed-wire fences that meet to form a corner about 100-200 feet to the north-west.
This is a new approach, NOT the original approach described in Kerry '97, which goes through what is now occupied private property. (See the attached satellite photo.) You do NOT want to park at the old stage stop ruins; if you find yourself there, drive a few hundred yards back south on the forest road to the new parking spot.
The approach initially goes west, paralleling one of the barbed-wire fences. See the attached satellite photo. As of Summer 2006, one path through the network of cow paths had been somewhat enhanced, but don't work too hard at picking the optimal path.
After about 5 minutes, the barbed-wire fence corners to the left/north, and you should too. Briefly walk north along the ridge before angling down to the right into a wash. After following this wash 100-200 feet, the foot of a ridge will appear on your right. It has several eroded trails up it, and maybe some cairns marking them. Get yourself on top of that ridge.
From that point on, the trail is distinct and well-marked. After another minute or two farther along the approach, it will finally start climbing. Time for the complete approach is about 40 minutes.
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Warpath Dome
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Warpath Dome:
Fax Crack 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Warpath 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Warpath Dome
Fax Crack 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c AZ
: Cochise Stronghold
: ... : Warpath Dome
Start up low-angle chimney until you can reach out to first bolt above bulge. Climb face right past another bolt and into the handcrack. Up the handcrack until you can step left into finger crack. Up finger crack or, more accurately, up plates to side of crack, using crack for pro. Crack runs out 12 feet or so shy of the anchors, but climbing is easy there. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
News and Events For Warpath Dome
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Warpath Dome from the wash/drainage
BETA PHOTO: Warpath Dome from the new parking spot. Photo lab...
|By Steve Pulver|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 1, 2007
"Please, when climbing in the stronghold - unless you know for sure- do not carry a drill. There are at least 1,000 routes done in the area...."
Maybe someday there will be a comprehensive guidebook, so we can know for sure.
|By jediah porter|
Nov 30, 2012
We descended Warpath, as per Kerry's recommendation, via the walk-off. It's gotta be better to rap. But we weren't sure of our options there. Still can't comment on what rappelling would require. In any case we scouted it out, got all poked up, and can steer you clear. It is worth, however, scrambling above the rap anchors to check out a classic Cochise summit. Plates, holes, boulders, lichen... it's sweet up there.