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Ron Roach searches for somehting resembling a hold...
This route was the best Christmas present I ever got.
Imagine climbing a steep sunny granite slab on near-perfect rock for almost 700 feet of edging and smearing. Imagine being surrounded by a sea of granite domes and trees in 65 degree weather in the middle of winter. Imagine watching Cotimundi's eating berries while approaching the base of the route and then rapping off in a beautiful Southwest desert sunset. Imagine all of that, or maybe just go climb this route and experience it instead.
Find this route by hiking to the base of Westworld Dome and skirting in to the base of a massive buttress, perhaps 160 feet tall and 10-15 degrees off of vertical, left of center. This is the beginning of the climb and it sports a line of bolts.
P1: 5.10c, 160'. Follow a line of bolts past the first crux, perhaps 1/3 of the way up the slab. This is runout at the top and the easiest line runs slightly left of center above the last bolt. If I recall correctly, this runout can be mitigated with a stopper placement if you desire to do so. You will end on a ledge where some gear or a cordalette will make a good belay. This pitch sets the tone for the rest of the route.
P2: 5.8+, 60'. Look back and left to see a small corner with a crack. Climb up this, protecting with 1.5 to 2.5" gear to reach a bolted belay after 60 feet or so. This pitch is the only "easy" pitch along the route, and is out of character with the majority of the climbing.
P3: 5.10c, 150'. Climb up another line of bolts arcing slightly right for a short distance and continue 2/3 of the way up the pitch to the crux where the holds are incredibly sloper and small, but still good. Finish the pitch at another bolted belay. This pitch, like the first, is a classic on it's own merit.
P4: 5.10b, 160'. Climb up and right from the belay to reach the next solid section of wall. After a little more 5.10b slabbing you will reach a section with larger and more positive holds, these end soon enough though and you will move up and left again to reach a blunt rib of rock onto more thin 5.10 face moves. Another classic pitch.
P5: 5.10c, 150'. Tired? Are your tips sore? You can ease back to 5.10a or lower climbing now... almost! Step up and right off of this belay and make a right-hand sequence (10c) though a set of sharp, crystaline pockets to reach the final crimpers before the angle eases off. From there continue to move up and right to near the massive corner overhead. You can even move right far enough to get a stem or two for rest. Finish the route to another set of bolts before rapping off.
Rap the route with two (2) 60 meter ropes. 50M ropes might work, but I have not verified this.
2 ropes to rap the route. I suggest 60M ropes, but 50's will work according to some pals.
Take perhaps a dozen or more draws, a few medium nuts or small tricams, and 1 set cams from 1-2.5". The pitch might be climbed with nothing more than bolts, but plan on severe 5.8-5.9 runouts without gear. I placed about 5 pieces of gear in all, but did run it out in the non-bolted areas. Take a cordalette for the belays.
I rated the route PG-13 because this route may be bolted well (bolts upgraded recently), but you'd still not want to take repeated falls on it. The bolts are reasonable spaced and the rock would likely leave cheese-grater dreams with anyone so brash as to siege the wall.
BETA PHOTO: Start of first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Warpaint gets morning shade. Mark is at bolted an...
Final rap off Warpaint
steven phillips, pitch one of warpaint
A sleepy dragon???
On the top of the first pitch
Boulder climber demonstrating the laws of friction...
one of the SHARP pockets on the last pitch. ouch!
Kate showing her "warpaint" on the route.
My advice is that if Warpaint is wet, and it's dri...
Jay coming up to the end of pitch 1.
Short pitch 2, Jay leading.
Crappy iPhone photo. ...
The 5th (final) pitch anchors are easy to miss as ...
Jay on the rap. Sept 2012.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2003
Agreed, this is a really fun route! If you can do pitch 1, you should be able to finish off the route, I thought it was harder than any of the later pitches. We also rapped the route with two 50m ropes no problem.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 22, 2003
An excellent public service project would be to upgrade the majority of bolts on this route, especially the rappel bolts. Many of the 5/16th buttonheads have blown out the lips of the holes behind the hangers and are spinners. I found the rappels especially badly rigged, with pound-shut links unable to lay flat in the chains, and thus producing a solid outward torque on the double bolt anchors. Rapping with a party of three past the hanging stance was just plain frightening. At a minimum, a Fixe rapide should be added to each belay, although I would suggest total replacement of the anchors (a lot of work but better than a mini Dolt Tower accident). The lead bolts should be evaluated and replaced on a "need" basis, or err on the side of caution and replace the ones that protect the longest runouts. Larry Coats, Flagstaff.
|By Larry Earley|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 2, 2003
Climbed this route in November of 2001. The bolts looked ok then. The anchors had one buttonhead bolt and one bolt with a nut. My partner who is a great friction climber lead P1 which was 10c. Don't slide on that really rough grit granite. We climbed Paleface (5.9) the day before to warm up on friction. P3 is mostly 9+ with a few thin moves to anchor. P4 starts with a thin friction section but could be really hard in middle for short people. We were both 6 feet tall so no problem. The start of P5 is 10c for three moves then it eases off slowly to 5.7 near top. This route was awesome. This climb is a classic. Better than Prince of Darkness at Red Rocks. Never saw a soul out climbing on a perfect November weekend.
|By barak shemai|
Dec 15, 2003
great sustained climbing, I agree with many others that most of the buttonheads need to be replaced, particularly ones protecting runout sections.
In my opinion, suspect protection does not add to the thrill of a route. If someone out there wants some help replacing these bolts, I would be more than willing to spend a weekend helpin out!
|By Wes Turner|
May 15, 2004
--stellar climb!!didn't use gear on any pitches other than the 2nd... but there are a couple places where gear would have made the runouts non-existant.ex.. p3 in low angle crack --start of p5... have those tips in shape for pulling on crystal pockets(.10c) and move right from 1st bolt. be aware of chains (up and head height) at top of P5 easy to climb past them--rack small to medium with nuts and lots of quicks...rap back down the route w/ double ropes...and take the top of second pitch to the ground
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 22, 2004
Eric Rhichard did the first ascent. I think he was with Bob Kerry. He put the route up with only a couple bolts and added many of the bolts on rappel as a public service. Thanks for thinking of us Eric.
|By Anthony Anagnostou|
Dec 12, 2005
as of december 05 there are no more POS bolts on the route. most are high quality new style bolts. a few are older style (unfamiliar with the design of these ones, they have a large domed head- some sort of pound in expansion perhaps?). but there are no manky, rusted, or quarter inchers.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Feb 19, 2006
FA Was done by me and Bob Kerry. A lot of the bolts (all of which were 5/16 or bigger) on Warpaint have been replaced as of late 2005. All of the anchors now have two 3/8ths bolts with stainless hardware. None of the old bolts were found to be faulty or in bad shape but most if not all spinners were replaced. All were difficult to remove. There is now at least one or more 3/8ths bolts between the climber and the belayers anchors. All remaining 5/16th buttonheads appear to be in as good a condition as those that were replaced. The rock here is sound and those buttonheads are more than adequate to hold any fall you are willing to take. Our thanks go to Climbing Magazines Anchor Replacement Initiative and the folks that did the work. ARI provided the bolts and hardware for the revamp.
Don't let your irrational fear or ignorance control you. Get informed on what is safe and use your rational thought to overcome your irrational fear! Finally think about this when you do the first pitch of Warpaint. After the first 20 feet, the first pitch has been climbed without grasping a single hold. By using your palms for balance and trusting your feet you don't have to pull even once.
|By manuel rangel|
Mar 10, 2006
Awesome route. I fell and fell on the first pitch. I finally made it. The rest of the route was a cruise, except for the wind up high, it made it a bit of drag. I hugged the arete for a long time waiting for it to die down.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
May 12, 2006
Here is a bit more info on Warpaint. The original route was done with a dozen bolts. The original first pitch climbed a grungy crack system 70ft. to the left of where the route now starts. The second pitch continued straight up from the crack/corner to the ledge halfway up the 3rd pitch, moved left to the route as it is now and belayed in the same place. From here to the top the route is as we did it during the FA. Afterward we drove to the east side for the beanfest.
Sep 27, 2007
My all-time favorite route, so far. Awesome climb and view!
Eric, thanks for putting up the route.
Mary, thanks for telling me about this climb and climbed it with me.
Oct 26, 2007
A GREAT route. I thought that the shallow pocket pulling at start of final pitch was harder than anything else on the route. Don't recall any runouts on it?
|By Aaron Miller|
Feb 17, 2009
Slab on first pitch was hard. Did steep chickenhead variation that heads right halfway up pitch 5. There were 3 bolts, no harder than 5.10. Belay at top from large sharp chickenheads. Fun.
Im glad to hear that those buttonheads are solid out here. There are a few places where you depend on them for bodily safety.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Apr 20, 2009
Did another variation to the 5th pitch today. After climbing past the crystal pockets and before you start heading up move right into the alcove and turn slightly chossy roof on jugs to the left. Continue up the crack and follow it out left joining the other variation just above the 3rd bolt. I did it with one Blue Camalot, and a light rack which included stoppers and cams to green camalot. A yellow and a red can be taken too but the gear is bomber at the 5.9 crux. Still prefer the middle of the three.
|By Chelsea Cook|
Oct 11, 2009
Eric, this route is amazing! I'm so glad you put it up!
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 13, 2009
If you do Warpaint soon after 10/10/09, then you may want to bring a wrench with you. There are several spinners at the top two sets of anchors (otherwise in great shape-- almost new-- but somebody needs to tighten the nuts). I would have done it, but I didn't have a wrench. GREAT route!! :-) Thanks as usual EFR!!!
|By John Hayes|
From: Bend, OR
Jan 9, 2010
rating: 5.10c PG13
I did the second ascent (I believe) with Bob Kerry after he and Eric put up this route. It is brilliant...thanks Eric!
|By jeff haskell|
Feb 23, 2010
I am 95% sure a single 70m rope gets you down. We used it for the first two raps- the first reaches easily, the second with just a few feet to spare. The third also appeared it would barely make it according to the mark on my rope. From here (top of P2) one would continue straight down to an anchor on the overhung wall below. (This is NOT part of Warpaint and is not visible from above.) One more rap would reach the ground in the large cave.
Oct 9, 2010
The sleepy dragon is actually "Elsie the Cow"
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 19, 2010
did this route yesterday and my calves are ON FIRE!
We did the bolted arete variation at the top of pitch 5 which I thought was super fun! I went straight up from the arete and I built and anchor w/ chicken heads on the top of the dome. From here go down to a ramp to find the rap anchors.
|By Greg D|
Nov 27, 2010
We rapped with one 70m rope no problem. On a few of the upper raps there wasn't a lot of rope to spare so watch your rope ends, of course. From on top of the 5.8 pitch you can get all the way to the top of a large boulder on the ground with just enough rope. But it requires a bit of a scary push off the wall followed by a quick zip down to land on top of the boulder thirty feet above the ground with little rope to spare. Don't worry. You don't need to do this if you don't want to. There are two other rap stations mid way down this face that are not visible until you get close to them.
|By Bob Graham|
Jan 10, 2011
amazing climb, just did it a couple of days ago, the wind was a bit tough but the climbing is excellent!
|By Benjamin Smith|
May 6, 2011
Hands down, my favorite route in Cochise... and I HATE slab.
The first pitch is the only pitch that has any seriously featureless slab. It's very well bolted. The difficult sections are well protected and short.
The rest of the route has some AWESOME face climbing.
|By John Wu|
Mar 23, 2012
Great route with a distinct crux at every pitch except P2. Every crux is well protected and any runout is on easier terrain and can be tamed with gear. We used a single rack BD C4 .4-3. No cordelette required as there are bolts at the top of P1, just move the belay for P2. 70m made the raps easy.
|By Al Peery|
Apr 6, 2012
My favorite 5.10! Each 5.10 pitch has different fun climbing.
A must do on all of my return trips!
|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
Oct 10, 2012
Thanks Eric. This instantly became an all time favorite climb for me. The position, movement, and aesthetics were nothing short of amazing.
|By Clay Mansfield|
Dec 11, 2012
Great climb on some of the highest quality rock I've been on in the stronghold. Makes me wonder why people have hate in their heart for slab.
Mar 2, 2013
one of the best routes anywhere. especially loved the 5th...wild stuff. beyond stars.