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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Warp Drive Overload 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson & Dan McQuade, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Season: trees block afternoon sun
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Sep 22, 2010

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Arms driven to overload.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Warp Drive Overload is the overhung, narrow, face just left of Practice Climb 101. Hidden behind trees, this is one of the better double arete problems in the Western US.

Start on PC 101. Place some gear up high to protect stepping left to first bolt. Extend with three shoulder-length slings, then climb back down.

Step left onto prow and move up to first bolt.
Wayne Crill about to move up to the first bolt.  P...
Wayne Crill about to move up to the first bolt.

Photo by Mt Project contributor
Tom Delaney.

Use hands and toes on both aretes.
Wayne Crill.  Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom ...
Wayne Crill.

Photo by Mt Project contributor
Tom Delaney.

Clip a second bolt from the not-so-incut hold that Wayne is reaching for in the photo below.
Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney.  Subm...
Photo by Mt Project contributor
Tom Delaney.

Submitted by Mt Project contributor Kevin Murphy.

Finishing off the crux requires commitment!
Photo by Mt Project contributor Phil Lauffen.
Photo by Mt Project contributor
Phil Lauffen.

Protection 

After the small gear placements on Practice Climb 101, just two protection bolts and then the double bolt anchor.


Photos of Warp Drive Overload Slideshow Add Photo
Landscape view.
Landscape view.
"Use hands and toes on both aretes...." ...
"Use hands and toes on both aretes...." ...
Great climb....
Great climb....

Comments on Warp Drive Overload Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Although rather short (yet not out of character for much of Eldo in that regard), this is a really enjoyable, semi-sustained and asthetic line with fun, gymnastic climbing.

Ken's description seems pretty right on, note that S. Levin, surprisingly, has the description wrong in the new Eldo guide. This route DOES NOT start to the left but does in fact begin on p1 of PC101 and then moves L onto the overhanging, double arete face.

Well protected and safe, it's surprising this is not a more popular pitch. It is also not as difficult as advertised. In comparison to other Eldorado climbs, it feels no more difficult that .12-.