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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Warp Drive Overload 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson & Dan McQuade, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Season: trees block afternoon sun
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Sep 22, 2010
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Arms driven to overload.

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The overhung, truncated prow, just left of Practice Climb 101. Start on PC 101, place some gear up high to protect step over to first bolt. Extend with three shoulder-length slings, then climb back down. Step left onto prow and up to first bolt. Use toes and hands on both aretes. It has a two bolt anchor.


Protection 

Only the two bolts, after the small gear placements on Practice Climb 101.



Photos of Warp Drive Overload Slideshow Add Photo
Landscape view.
Landscape view.
"Use hands and toes on both aretes...." <br /> <br />Photo: T. DeLaney.
"Use hands and toes on both aretes...."

Photo: T....
Great climb....
Great climb....
Comments on Warp Drive Overload Add Comment
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Although rather short (yet not out of character for much of Eldo in that regard), this is a really enjoyable, semi-sustained and asthetic line with fun, gymnastic climbing.

Ken's description seems pretty right on, note that S. Levin, surprisingly, has the description wrong in the new Eldo guide. This route DOES NOT start to the left but does in fact begin on p1 of PC101 and then moves L onto the overhanging, double arete face.

Well protected and safe, it's surprising this is not a more popular pitch. It is also not as difficult as advertised. In comparison to other Eldorado climbs, it feels no more difficult that .12-.