|West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Warp Drive Overload
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Rolofson & Dan McQuade, 1987|
|Fixed Hardware: ||2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]|
|Season: ||trees block afternoon sun|
|Page Views: ||688|
|Submitted By: ||Ken Trout on Sep 22, 2010|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
The overhung, truncated prow, just left of Practice Climb 101. Start on PC 101, place some gear up high to protect step over to first bolt. Extend with three shoulder-length slings, then climb back down. Step left onto prow and up to first bolt. Use toes and hands on both aretes. It has a two bolt anchor.
Only the two bolts, after the small gear placements on Practice Climb 101.
"Use hands and toes on both aretes...."
|Comments on Warp Drive Overload
|By Wayne Crill|
From: an Altered State
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Although rather short (yet not out of character for much of Eldo in that regard), this is a really enjoyable, semi-sustained and asthetic line with fun, gymnastic climbing.
Ken's description seems pretty right on, note that S. Levin, surprisingly, has the description wrong in the new Eldo guide. This route DOES NOT start to the left but does in fact begin on p1 of PC101 and then moves L onto the overhanging, double arete face.
Well protected and safe, it's surprising this is not a more popular pitch. It is also not as difficult as advertised. In comparison to other Eldorado climbs, it feels no more difficult that .12-.