|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Todd Vogel, Dave Focardi, Oct 1990|
|Submitted By:||Euan Cameron on Apr 17, 2007|
|Comments on Warning Signs||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 5, 2007
|Good climb! Stay direct! Don't cheese out by traversing left at the crux.|
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|Second that: stay straight and true through the crux. A beautiful and sustained line. Solid at the grade.|
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Nov 9, 2013
I climbed both variations on lead, and while the direct line is, yes, harder and very good, I thought the moves left flowed even better, and almost seems like the natural line, even though it isn't as direct.
If this variation left is done (clearly the most traveled line by vote of chalk) I'd say the route comes in at ~5.10a or b. The direct line has a very clear and defined crux, maybe two or three moves worth?
Would be a great lead for someone looking to break into this grade, as the rest of the route is nowhere near .10d, more like cruiser .9 or easy .10 IMO.
Definitely a classic no matter how you choose to send it!