Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Warner Valley

Select Area...
Loading Zone , The 

Warner Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 40.393, -121.3078 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,665
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Muscrat, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Routes on the central section of the Loading Zone.

Description 

Several small crags, most with chossy rock, however, the Loading Zone is clean fine grain volcanic with splitter moderate cracks. The getting there description below is to the Loading Zone.

Getting There 

From the upcoming NE Cali Climbing Guide...

From the town of Chester take Feather River Drive toward Lassen N.P. and Drakesbad (don’t head toward Juniper Lake). The first one-lane bridge you come to is called “High Bridge,” is about 5.5 miles from the town of Chester. Approximately .6 miles past this bridge, the road forks and you will follow the right fork towards Drakesbad get to Warner Valley. About 3 miles after the fork you will come to a second one-lane bridge. 1/4 mile after this second bridge, watch for a dirt road on your right. Turn onto this and make an immediate left onto a smaller dirt road (4WD recommended). Follow this 1/4 mile to the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.0 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',5],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Warner Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Warner Valley:
Io's Hidden Pleasure Point   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   The Loading Zone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Warner Valley

Featured Route For Warner Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Hunkering down before the fun roof finish!

Io's Hidden Pleasure Point 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  CA : Northeast California : ... : The Loading Zone
An entertaining line up a thin face to a fun (10.c) roof. First bolt is quite high (20'+) but can be clipped by using the easy 5th on the left and/or stick clip. Needs a few ascents to clean it up, as with most routes here. Originally led on gear (bouble rp's, thin rack to 2", slings. 10.c R/X). For those with fat fingers, the roof can be a struggle....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Warner Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By HenryMK
From: Chico,CA
Apr 4, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Tried to make it out there Saturday night 4/2/16 and ran into some snow/ice. The road towards Drakesbad isn't maintained/plowed yet. I'd say in a month +- some weeks will allow easier passage.
By Daniel Wade
From: Oakland, CA.
Jun 3, 2014
We climbed here on May 30, 2014. Great area and many moderate cracks as the description suggests. I lead what I think was a 5.7 crack (thin to wide) on the left side of the feature (perhaps Finger Crack). We TR'd from an anchor I built a slightly harder lie-back on the right (perhaps Black Crack 5.8) and a deceptively easy overhanging off width to the left (perhaps Sure Thing 5.7). There is a set of bolts on the top of the middle of the wall which allows for a TR of an overhanging jam crack/lieback - probably the most striking line when looking at the wall from below. It felt like 5.10 (perhaps Lady Fantasy?). We also TR'd an easy (5.7 - perhaps Second Street Scene) crack to the right. Plenty for lines for a trip back. See also rockclimbing.com/routes/North_....

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!