Warner Valley Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||40.393, -121.3078 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||2,251|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Muscrat, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010|
The central portion of the Loading Zone.
Several small crags, most with chossy rock, however, the Loading Zone is clean fine grain volcanic with splitter moderate cracks. The getting there description below is to the Loading Zone.
From the upcoming NE Cali Climbing Guide...
From the town of Chester take Feather River Drive toward Lassen N.P. and Drakesbad (dont head toward Juniper Lake). The first one-lane bridge you come to is called High Bridge, is about 5.5 miles from the town of Chester. Approximately .6 miles past this bridge, the road forks and you will follow the right fork towards Drakesbad get to Warner Valley. About 3 miles after the fork you will come to a second one-lane bridge. 1/4 mile after this second bridge, watch for a dirt road on your right. Turn onto this and make an immediate left onto a smaller dirt road (4WD recommended). Follow this 1/4 mile to the base of the cliff.
Climbing Season For the Northeast California area.
Weather station 8.0 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Warner Valley
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Warner Valley
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Warner Valley:
Featured Route For Warner Valley
Deviant 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c CA
: Northeast California
: ... : The Loading Zone
Start on "Io's Hidden Pleasure Point", after the fifth bolt head left to the overhanging roof, clip 2 bolts, pull the tough roof/mantle, finish at the chains for "Io's...".The original meaning of deviant is "turning out of the way". Well protected, can be damp in spring....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Apr 4, 2016
Tried to make it out there Saturday night 4/2/16 and ran into some snow/ice. The road towards Drakesbad isn't maintained/plowed yet. I'd say in a month +- some weeks will allow easier passage.
By Daniel Wade
From: Oakland, CA.
Jun 3, 2014
We climbed here on May 30, 2014. Great area and many moderate cracks as the description suggests. I lead what I think was a 5.7 crack (thin to wide) on the left side of the feature (perhaps Finger Crack). We TR'd from an anchor I built a slightly harder lie-back on the right (perhaps Black Crack 5.8) and a deceptively easy overhanging off width to the left (perhaps Sure Thing 5.7). There is a set of bolts on the top of the middle of the wall which allows for a TR of an overhanging jam crack/lieback - probably the most striking line when looking at the wall from below. It felt like 5.10 (perhaps Lady Fantasy?). We also TR'd an easy (5.7 - perhaps Second Street Scene) crack to the right. Plenty for lines for a trip back. See also rockclimbing.com/routes/North_....