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Routes in Warm Up Rock
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Sport Hiker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Warm Up T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 646 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jan 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
This small crag is subject to the same raptor closures as for Mickey Mouse Wall, Cave Rock, and some of the other crags on Eldorado Mountain. Typically, it is closed February 1- July 31. Occasionally the closures are shortened or lengthened. Check with Boulder Mountain Parks and Open Space for more details.
Description
This is a decent, overhanging sport route on generous holds that packs a bit of a punch. It is the left of the 2 bolted lines. It has a bit more seriousness than its neighbor due to its start.
Start in from the left, and move into a pod that will make you look sort of like you're in a womb. Find a stable position and clip the 1st bolt. Move up and right to a good rail and clip. Now it gets a bit awkward as you try to move left and get stable. A cam be placed in the crack to the left. You can find a cool thread. Reach far right and clip. Move up to an alcove with an old nest, and milk the rest. Clip, move up and left, and run it to the anchors on somewhat licheny holds.
Note, the guidebook lists this as a 10b, but you might get a surprise if you go into it thinking it's "only a 10."
A stick clip is recommended.
Start in from the left, and move into a pod that will make you look sort of like you're in a womb. Find a stable position and clip the 1st bolt. Move up and right to a good rail and clip. Now it gets a bit awkward as you try to move left and get stable. A cam be placed in the crack to the left. You can find a cool thread. Reach far right and clip. Move up to an alcove with an old nest, and milk the rest. Clip, move up and left, and run it to the anchors on somewhat licheny holds.
Note, the guidebook lists this as a 10b, but you might get a surprise if you go into it thinking it's "only a 10."
A stick clip is recommended.
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