Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out T 
Air Swedin T 
Battle of the Bulge T 
Big Baby, The T 
Black Corner T 
Bloombagged Again T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
Crack Attack T 
Digital Readout T 
Disco Machine Gun T 
Dogs in Space T 
Down in Albion T 
Elbow Vices T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Hole in the Wall T 
Jagged Wedge, The T 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 
Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Seppuku Flake T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,011
Submitted By: Jason Wells on Nov 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Just above crux...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Short, but fun. Almost dead center in the Battle of the Bulge buttress between the cave and Jane Fonda's. Look for the 30' climb with a large flake resting at the base and small roof 10' above it. Scramble to the top of the flake, take a rest after a move and jam past the little roof. Cruise through the widening crack to a nice ledge on the right.

I saw a guide book (can't remember which one) with 5.8+ on the topo, but most will agree that there's a tough move or two getting off the flake and past the roof (9+?).


Singles from a #.75 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. Nice climb for those with a little rack.

Photos of Warm-up Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: introduction to IC fall '04
introduction to IC fall '04
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up wide hands.  Anchor visible up and ri...
Finishing up wide hands. Anchor visible up and ri...

Comments on Warm-up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2002

Yeah, definitely harder than 5.8+...
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 18, 2003

I lead pretty hard, onsight 5.11 and I BACKED OFF this route.....Not 5.8+!
By Ryan Deppen
Aug 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Although it may be harder than 5.8, the climb is a one move wonder from the stance just above the detached flake. From there it's cruiser hands. Just my $.02
By andy patterson
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 12, 2007

I thought it was rated 5.9 in the book... Whatever, I guess. It stills falls in the category of "".
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

cool little warm up. short. would say it's a 9.
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great route for your first IC lead. One move at 5.9 really, and the rest is sinker hands. Great pro.
By TinMan92592
From: Temecula, CA
Apr 2, 2010

As a climber new to crack climbing this was a good route to develop technique of combination of crack and face climbing
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 23, 2010

fun short and varied with a tricky move or two off the flake

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!