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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle 
Unnamed RF hands to tips 
Warm-up 

Warm-up 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,460
Submitted By: Jason Wells on Nov 2, 2001
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Just above crux...

Description 

Short, but fun. Almost dead center in the Battle of the Bulge buttress between the cave and Jane Fonda's. Look for the 30' climb with a large flake resting at the base and small roof 10' above it. Scramble to the top of the flake, take a rest after a move and jam past the little roof. Cruise through the widening crack to a nice ledge on the right.

I saw a guide book (can't remember which one) with 5.8+ on the topo, but most will agree that there's a tough move or two getting off the flake and past the roof (9+?).


Protection 

Singles from a #.75 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. Nice climb for those with a little rack.



Photos of Warm-up Slideshow Add Photo
introduction to IC fall '04
introduction to IC fall '04
Finishing up wide hands.  Anchor visible up and right on ledge.
Finishing up wide hands. Anchor visible up and ri...
Comments on Warm-up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2002

Yeah, definitely harder than 5.8+...

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 18, 2003

I lead pretty hard, onsight 5.11 and I BACKED OFF this route.....Not 5.8+!

By Ryan Deppen
Aug 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Although it may be harder than 5.8, the climb is a one move wonder from the stance just above the detached flake. From there it's cruiser hands. Just my $.02

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 12, 2007

I thought it was rated 5.9 in the book... Whatever, I guess. It stills falls in the category of "5.fun".

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

cool little warm up. short. would say it's a 9.

By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A great route for your first IC lead. One move at 5.9 really, and the rest is sinker hands. Great pro.

By TinMan92592
Apr 2, 2010

As a climber new to crack climbing this was a good route to develop technique of combination of crack and face climbing

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 23, 2010

fun short and varied with a tricky move or two off the flake