Warm Up Crack 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Menendez, Crill, Caylor, Gallagher? |
| Season: | colder times |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2009 |
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Warm Up Crack ascends the double crack system on t...
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Description This is the second from the right most route in the main Quarry Wall area. It ascends a slightly awkward hands-to-fist size cracks where your elbows or shoulders seem to get in the way. Some may feel the rating a bit stiff, but apparently some solo the route (not me). If you set up an anchor up and left, you can TR the challenging Offwidth Bulge to the left.
Location This is the 2nd climb from the right. It goes up to the left side to the thin block above. It is just left of The Mummy.
Protection Cams #0.75 to #3.5 (old size) Camalots work. A belay is a bit challenging to find. You can belay above the Offwidth Bulge with #0.5, 0.75, 1, 4 (old size) Camalots.
Juile on the crux section of Warm up Crack.
| At the top. Short but sweet.
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| Comments on Warm Up Crack |
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By Wayne Crill From: an Altered State Jan 13, 2009 rating: 5.7
| This is a great little warm-up. Really a high-quality nice problem, for the little scrappy stuff here. It's probably worthy of two stars (especially since I gave "The Bowels" a star -it's cool!). Jimmy Menendez is the one who first brought us out here in 2003/04 I think, he, Kevin, Hank, and I soloed or led all these fun little scrappers around that point in time, I think I even had names for them at one point? Cool to see people getting after this fun little stuff. The left side of this column is a really fun scrappy overhanging offwidth, Vedauwoo-esque, an exciting problem. |
By J. Thompson From: denver, co Sep 23, 2009 rating: 5.7
| This is a really fun, really short climb! josh |
By Doug Redosh From: golden, CO Nov 18, 2009 rating: 5.9
| One can TR this climb from the anchors on The Mummy, with a #2 Camalot for a directional, then climb the left side of the Mummy for a fun 5.9+. |
By Dave Clark 5.10 From: Golden, CO Nov 23, 2009 rating: 5.9
| Short, strenuous shoulder squeeze problem made this feel like 5.9, but probably 5.8 for those smarter than I. Continuing up left edge arete to top of Mummy was harder (10a?), but considerably more elegant. |
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