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Warm-up Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballarete 
Captain Prow 
D-Day 
Dirty Sanchez 
Glass Arete 
Glass Menagerie 
Karmic Power 
Left Up 
LOC Up 
LT 
Mexican Hat 
Private Slabby 
Royale With Cheese 
Satellite 
Scoop, The 
Sergeant Crumble 

Warm-up Area  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.12947, -76.6946 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,103
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Seth Derr on Dec 30, 2011
Forecast:
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Governor Stable requires membership or a paid pass. The Circuit Area is currnetly closed to all climbing while access to the area is negotiated. Please respect the closed / no tresspassing signs posted near the pyramid. The rest of GS proper remains open to members and daypass holders. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The warm-up area is the first cluster of boulders you come to when you arrive at GS. Problems here range from easy to hard, but an abundance of easier lines combined with its location make this the perfect place to warm up.

Getting There 

First Boulders reached at GS. 10 minutes from the parking lot, 5 from the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',8],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Warm-up Area:
Private Slabby   V0 4     Boulder, 16'   
The Scoop   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   
Glass Arete   V1 5     Boulder   
Glass Menagerie   V3 6A     Boulder   
Ballarete   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 12'   
Browse More Classics in Warm-up Area

Featured Route For Warm-up Area
Ballarete

Ballarete V3-4 6A+  PA : South Central PA : ... : Warm-up Area
There's a sit and a stand. The stand goes at V3, the sit at V4, although in my opinion the sit isn't all that difficult. The problem itself is a little contrived, as the giant jug out left is off. Apparently you have to stay near the arete. All that being said, it's a fun problem with some interesting balance. Try it. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Warm-up Area Slideshow Add Photo
The Scoop, Ballarete, Karmic Power, Etc
The Scoop, Ballarete, Karmic Power, Etc
Twin Soldiers, Royal With Cheese, Etc
Twin Soldiers, Royal With Cheese, Etc

Comments on Warm-up Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Apr 22, 2013
Does anyone know what the problem to the right of Karmic Power is called/grade? My friend and I didn't have a guidebook and it doesn't say on here.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jan 27, 2014
No Moss, V9? I think there's something in between the two but it might either be an open project or dumb. No Moss starts in the crimp seam on the far right of the Karmic Power boulder.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 30, 2014
This is also called the Upstream Arete area. The problem on the right side of the Upstream arete boulder that you refer to is a V8/9, like Seth said. It was first done by Matt Bosley in 2004 after being tried by many locals in the year prior. It starts in the seam on 3/4 pad crimps with one high foot chip, slaps to a perfect but hideously sloping lip, then a quick snatch to a jug. This problem is one of the absolute best of it's grade range at any diabase area, Haycock included. It is also one of the most powerful and simple problems on diabase I have seen. The slopers are plain amazing.

The similar looking climb to the left of No Moss is a project. It's features and holds are almost the same as those on the climb to the right, but with less feet and no jug to toss to. The starting crimp seams are textbook, the sloping lip is worse, and the top slab has a few tiny grips. One would need to get established well on the sloping lip to attain the upper slab crimps with control. I suspect it is no easier than V11. When completed, this project will be one of the best hard problems in Pennsylvania.