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Jailhouse Rock
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Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan McDevitt
Page Views: 1,498
Submitted By: Colin Simon on Jun 19, 2011

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably the easiest and least steep route at Jailhouse! That being said, it still overhangs a tad.

Climb the collection of blocks through fixed draws to an anchor. Rests are relatively easy to find.

Location 

Third route from the far right of the wall.

Protection 

Fixed draws, bottom to top.


Comments on Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) Add Comment
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By Caliza
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This one is called Lobotomy or McDevit Route.
By Julian Bobilev
Apr 11, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

People would call this 12a at Gold Wall. The crux sequence flows well with really fun footwork.
By Vlad S
Apr 11, 2016

People call a lot of the routes 5.12 at goldwall that are not. Don't use goldwall as the measuring stick, since it's an extreme outlier on the grading scale, being one of the softest crags on the entire continent. By the way, a large jug came off around 1/2 way mark in the winter of 2014/2015, making that section more awkward and the whole route a bit less appealing. It didn't affect the difficulty, since the crux is still at the 2nd bolt.
By Julian Bobilev
Apr 15, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The 2nd bolt is about .10a, are we talking about the same route? There is a crux sequence with lots of sidepull bumping between bolts 3 and 4 but since you're well rested at that point it doesn't pose much of a challenge. The redpoint crux to me is definitely linking all the moves at the last three or so bolts, since it's pretty sustained and you're tired from the rest of the route.
By Caliza
Apr 16, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The second bolt is a little technical but I would not consider that the crux. The first two bolts after the ledge midway is definitely more viable of a candidate to be the crux. The angle of the route is a little steeper with technical and big moves after already having climbed 40 feet. I agree Gold Wall is a soft crag, but at the same time Jailhouse is on the sandbagged end. Most crags I've been to fall between the two as far as grades go.

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