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The Matron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Ridge T 
Father Knows Best T,S 
North Crack T 
North Face T 
North Face Right T 
Pasta Man T 
Quiche on a Leash T 
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 
Serpentine Dreams S 
South Face T 
Sunday Comix T,TR 
Warlocks T 
West Face T,TR 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgaber and Skip Guerin
Season: Fall
Page Views: 1,127
Submitted By: bhoran on Jan 2, 2009

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Bob Horan on the 2nd ascent of Warlocks.

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This is a continuos, steep to slightly overhanging crack system with fist to finger jams and a reachy exit move at the top. One the best cracks for its grade in the Flatirons.


    Located on the lower east end of the south face of the Matron. From the southeast end of the Matron hike up slope a short distance to the prominent, left-leaning crack/corner system. Climb up from a large block and begin jamming up the fist to finger crack, exit right over a bulge to the belay, rap station.


    Gear up to a #4 Friend with rappel station at the top.

    Photos of Warlocks Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on 2nd ascent of Warlocks.
    Bob Horan on 2nd ascent of Warlocks.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Southeast face of the Matron. Photo: Bob Horan col...
    Southeast face of the Matron. Photo: Bob Horan col...

    Comments on Warlocks Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By DavidHume
    Oct 4, 2009

    Anchor needs work! There was one bolt with a runner nest, including one relatively new sling, and two stoppers that had popped out and were hanging from the sling. We re-set one stopper and backed it up with a cam for toproping, then the last person rapped from the bolt and stopper.

    The first half is quite dirty (pigeon shit) and loose in places, but the climbing is interesting and continuous. The last half is great fun and the whole thing would clean up with a little work.

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