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Warlock Pinche 
Warlock Pinchers 

Warlock Pinche 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Christie Whitehill
Season: All
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Mar 21, 2012
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Description 

This is a fun linkup of "Warlock Pinchers" into "Pinche Guey". It has a cool sloper crux! Permission was given by Samet and Hache for this line.


Location 

Start on "Warlock Pincher" and climb to anchor on "Pinche Guey" clipping a traverse bolt between both routes.


Protection 

10 bolts.



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By Pinklebear
Jun 30, 2012

Good eye to Josh and Christie for this killer link up--it takes the hardest climbing on three cool routes and links them up through the steepest part of the wall on nice, dark rock. I thought it was a fair bit harder, at least in terms of pump factor, than Pinche Guey. I'd say a 12a crux, to 5.11- laybacks, to a cool, technical, body-English 11+ crux traverse, then into the Pinche roof of Pinche Guey. ¡Orale!

You can also do "Rock Warrior's Guey," 5.12c, by traversing in from low on the right, beginning on the flat starting jug below the 11a corner. Arc up and across the blue streak to join Warlock Pinchers by the second bolt; harder if you off-route the jug flanges on the right for your hands. This variation is also "guey" pumpy.