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Unsorted Routes:

Warhorse 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Equiped by Ian Neilson, FFA- Brad Heller
New Route: Yes
Season: east facing
Page Views: 3,322
Submitted By: bheller on Jun 29, 2010

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Pete the Greek, airing it out over LCC on Warhorse...

The Climb 

First off, I did not name this route.

From the base of the route, climb up the easy chimney/corner to the right of the steeply overhanging wall. After about 40 feet a horizontal shelf appears that allows one to climb left 40 feet, surmount the lip, and reach the upper slab/face. This rail traverse cuts straight across the 30 degree overhang and the beauty of its position is only matched by the awkwardness of its climbing. At the end of the rail traverse, a final powerful boulder problem guards the mantle onto the slab. Once established on the slab, easy climbing leads to the first bolt, and then delicate face climbing allows you to clutch and mantle a sloping chickenhead and clip the second bolt. This is where it gets interesting- now reverse that mantle and head straight left across a line of chickenheads for about 10 feet. Next climb straight up about 10 more feet until you get your feet established on the horizontal seam that diagonally cuts across the upper face at 2/3rds height. Now, calm your pulse and execute the delicate rightward traverse, walking your feet on the seam, until you can stand on another large chickenhead and clip the 3rd and last bolt. From this last stance, step down and right and execute the final fingery, balancey, face crux. Bring your sharpest shoes and your best poise! Rejoice after sticking the moves, and remember to enjoy cruising the easy moves to the anchors.

A Historical Note: Ian Neilson had incredible vision to pursue the climbing potential out the traversing rail. After cleaning the route from the top down, he placed all but one of the bolts on lead from stances. He even lassoed a chickenhead. He climbed everything on this route except the extemely blank, holdless terrain above the 2nd bolt(holds have also since broken on the upper boulder problem, rendering it far more difficult). I climbed this route(with Ian's permission) using a runout leftward variation from his intended line. The variation rejoins just above the blank section that has yet to reveal its climbing sequence. The blank section may never go free, but who knows? If one were to unlock the sequence for the blank section, a large slingable chickenhead between the 2nd and 3rd bolt reduces the fall consequences dramatically. The leftward variation skirts the blank face, as well as the slingable chicken head.

The Hang 

This route climbs the chickenhead speckled face on the far left side of the Perserverence Buttress. Some creative up and down 5th class scrambling leads to a nice belay spot under the huge overhanging wall. A 70 meter rope is needed to rappel, but this is really a route for which you want to use double rope technique.

The Gears 

Two nested cams and 3 bolts in 35 meters. The two nested cams protect the traverse boulder problem. Additional .75-1" cams could be placed to protect the moves before the gear nest- but rope drag is definatley an issue. For the gear nest, I used a grey metolius supercam and a red metolius master cam, and equalized them. I felt 100% climbing above this gear. You do have to climb 10-12 feet left of the cams and then mantle, so the fall would be an exciting swing! On the face above, I clipped the first bolt with a normal draw, and the second bolt with a double length runner (4ft) to reduce rope drag. Standard quickdraw on final bolt. Chain anchor on top(thanks Tenesmus).


Photos of Warhorse Slideshow Add Photo
Brush my pretty hair!
Brush my pretty hair!
The Perserverence Wall <br /> <br />Warhorse can be seen as the orange #6. <br />Zac Robinson- I give thee photo credit.
The Perserverence Wall Warhorse can be seen as th...

Comments on Warhorse Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 16, 2010
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 29, 2010

Really this route only deserves 2.5 stars- purely due to typical east-facing LCC grainy rock- I couldn't get myself to only give it 2 stars though! The traversing rail offers unforgettable position that is rivaled by very few climbs in the Wasatch.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 29, 2010

excellent and inspiring! great pics too btw.
By Ben Folsom
Jun 29, 2010

Excellent work Brad!
By apross
Jun 29, 2010

very nice.
By I.A.N
Jun 29, 2010

Nice work Brad! psyched you figured out the free climbing above the second bolt. Proud FFA. I spent a lot of time and energy equipping this route with Clay Watson. I named it Crybaby but Brad decided he didnt like the name. I still think the first ascentionist should have the right to name the climb. I told the Info Nympho :) Crybaby was the name. interesting that he mentioned that he didnt name it even though I specifically requested he post it under its origional name...

Also, this was my first new routing experience. ALL the bolts were drilled on the lead from stances. I used a fixed line to free my stuck bolt kit before drilling the third bolt. Not the purest style but everyone goes through the learning curve.
By Zac Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 30, 2010

gosh. that diamond face has been begging for it for a while.

I saw the fixed line up there, and then today it was gone.

congrats! super proud!
By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2010

Ian, that's still a burly line. You and I have had some laughs at how silly we were to each other over that whole situation. I'll admit I was an idiot for the way I got frustrated. Life gets me by the throat sometimes and I really let it show then. Part of the learning curve for both of us.

You named it Crybaby because of our argument. But then you told me you called it Warhorse or something like that because you were trying to move past our disagreement. I stopped talking about this a long time ago and don't remember mentioning that name to anyone although I did see it associated with the photo Andy shared on utahclimbers. I think Crybaby is hilarious - mostly because it shows how dumb we were but especially because it reflects on both of us and I'm fine with that.

After you called it War Horse, I always kind of chuckled inside and in my mind called it "My Little Pony". I always thought you'd laugh at that too.
By I.A.N
Jun 30, 2010

Brad mentioned "My little Pony", and Laugh I did...
By mountainsense
Jun 30, 2010

Strong work, Brad! S
By zoso
Jun 30, 2010

So it's settled: My Little Pony
By jonathan knight
Jun 30, 2010

Wow, what a stroke-fest! Nice job sticking it out there Brad. Sounds like another bolt would be nice if it wasn't for the damn kid and his ideals!

I like Crybaby for a number of reasons, but My Little Pony seems like a nice compromise. After all the flogging, someone needs to flash the thing and settle it once and for all!
By I.A.N
Jul 1, 2010

You're all Dicks. I'll cry if I want to. Four days of excavating mud and bushes and death scrambling to put in the anchor and your trying to dilute my kool-aid. Crybaby Fo' Realz!
By jonathan knight
Jul 2, 2010

No kool-aid for you until you finish it.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 2, 2010

I'll add a stroke. Nice work, Brad! One of these days I've got to get over my notion that I climbed enough granite last century to ever set foot on it again and actually head into LCC.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jul 10, 2010

Proud addition to the Westwind. I like that this route entailed a large community effort. Everyone should get credit where it's due. Since the intent was to create a free route from the outset, in my opinion Brad gets the naming rights.
By I.A.N
Jul 16, 2010

Your Mom is a Free Route...