Wargasm 5.12b PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Equipped- Unknown, FFA of 2nd pitch- Joe Mills and Taylor Roy |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Taylor Roy on Jan 4, 2012 |
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Joe Mills on the 2nd pitch of Wargasm, 5.12b.
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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Wargasm is listed as a fully bolted, two pitch, 5.12 open project in the new Flatirons guidebook. We didn't free the first pitch because it was so dirty, but we are claiming the FA of the harder second pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.11+?)- from a very nice alcove, climb solid but very licheny rock to a comforable ledge with a 2 bolt midway anchor. The crux of this pitch is getting past the second bolt. With a bit of scrubbing, this pitch will be worth climbing.
Pitch 2 (5.12b)- from the ledge, work up a slopey ramp and pull around the left side of the black arete. Small edges, pebbles, and delicate footwork get you to a jug on the face at mid-height. A thin crux on sidepulls gains bigger holds that lead to the anchor.
We did not scrub or clean these pitches so beware of loose rock. Also, it's very possible to hit the ledge if you fall trying to clip the second bolt of pitch 2. Hence the PG-13 rating. If this got cleaned and properly scrubbed, it could easily become a 3 or 4 star route - especially if done in one long pitch.
As always, be careful not to lower off the end of your rope getting off the 2nd pitch.
Since the history of this route is unclear, I will gladly fix and update the information if we are incorrect in claiming an FA of pitch 2.
Location This is on the left end of the Corridor section of the East Ridge. Look for a black arete.
Protection Bolts with a midway anchor and a top anchor.
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