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Wargasm 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Equipped- Unknown, FFA of 2nd pitch- Joe Mills and Taylor Roy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jan 4, 2012

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Joe Mills on the 2nd pitch of Wargasm, 5.12b.

Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Wargasm is listed as a fully bolted, two pitch, 5.12 open project in the new Flatirons guidebook. We didn't free the first pitch because it was so dirty, but we are claiming the FA of the harder second pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.11+?)- from a very nice alcove, climb solid but very licheny rock to a comforable ledge with a 2 bolt midway anchor. The crux of this pitch is getting past the second bolt. With a bit of scrubbing, this pitch will be worth climbing.

Pitch 2 (5.12b)- from the ledge, work up a slopey ramp and pull around the left side of the black arete. Small edges, pebbles, and delicate footwork get you to a jug on the face at mid-height. A thin crux on sidepulls gains bigger holds that lead to the anchor.

We did not scrub or clean these pitches so beware of loose rock. Also, it's very possible to hit the ledge if you fall trying to clip the second bolt of pitch 2. Hence the PG-13 rating. If this got cleaned and properly scrubbed, it could easily become a 3 or 4 star route - especially if done in one long pitch.

As always, be careful not to lower off the end of your rope getting off the 2nd pitch.

Since the history of this route is unclear, I will gladly fix and update the information if we are incorrect in claiming an FA of pitch 2.

Location 

This is on the left end of the Corridor section of the East Ridge. Look for a black arete.

Protection 

Bolts with a midway anchor and a top anchor.


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2nd pitch of Wargasm.
2nd pitch of Wargasm.

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