Warehouse Run

This is known as the first girdle traverse ever done in the USA. I got the original description from an ancient copy of "Appalachia" and modified it after climbing it with Bob Schrader and Alex Catlin in 1986

P1: (See Location Note) Scramble up the 4th class ramp to a small ledge 10-15' below an overhang. Climb left and up past an old piton (still there?) to a good ledge about 30' away.

P2: Step down, continue left, crossing a groove at Frenchman’s Cap. Contine past the top of Yvette, and Defender. Cross a chimney, which is partly overhung by the left leaning Defender buttress, and climb diagonally upward from here to a vine infested belay ledge about 15' from the top, on the broken wall around the corner to the north of Wiessner’s Rib.

P3: Continue left and up almost to the top of the cliff. Climb around the corner and down on large blocks to a ramp. “Hand traverse” around another corner, step left and downclimb on nice layback holds to a niche. This downclimbed section was crossed by rappel and pendulumn on the FA in 1934.

P4: Climb down and left. Step across a wide groove at an old pin (?). Climb up past the belay stance on Wiessner’s Rib P2. Continue on to the prominent south sloping platform by the start of Rhadamanthus

P5: A short descent is made from the far side of the platform. Continue left on the same level for about 50' - crossing below the smooth Rhadamanthus wall. Cross an easy gully at the same height, and continue to the yellow buttress about 80'’ away.

P6: From the pillar, step up and around a corner then on to another corner with an old ring pin. Step up and around this corner. Walk across a wide broken gully to the base of a low angle buttress.

P7: Climb the low angle buttress to the top.

Update 2022: 

Note: Historically, it seems that P2 was climbed from the top of P1 all the way up to the walled-in belay ledge near the top of the cliff. It may be more practical for most parties to break this into two pitches, belaying at a corner beyond the broken chimney crossing. For simplicity this description begins by following historical pitch #s, breaking P2 into part I and part II.

P1: (5.5) Proceed up the 4th class ramp to the first buttress where it is possible to step up and around the corner to access the initial horizontal hand traverse. Belay at a corner guarded by a free-standing monolith and a precariously perched pine tree. 

P2, Part I: (5.5) Continue left, following the path of least resistance over the top of Yvette, and past Defender to cross a prominent broken chimney, trending left to a grassy belay patch in a corner beneath a low-angle buttress.  

P2, Part II: (5.7) Climb straight up, crashing through shrubs onto the low-angle buttress, trending left for gear toward a square of orange rock where it is possible to step up and left onto a somewhat sheltered in-cut belay ledge near the top of the cliff. 

P3: (5.7+) Climb straight up on the left side of the belay ledge, continuing left to gain a steep prominent buttress where it is possible to protect and begin a steep descent on committing moves, taking care to protect the second on some solid rock available between protruding detached flakes. An especially committing downward move arrives at considerably vegetated island, bringing you to a crossroads: 

A-Historical Line: Continue downclimbing to the prominent, sloped platform by the start of Rhadamanthus. 

B-“Warehouse High Reverse” Variation 5.8+ (5.7R): Continue up and around a corner onto the second pitch of Weissner’s Rib where it is possible to build a semi-hanging belay on arete allowing you to see around the corner to a narrow, improbable, sparsely-protected ledge system migrating left.

From this point on, this entry follows the 2022 variation “Warehouse High Reverse”

P4: (5.8+, 5.6R) Step around the first corner onto the improbable ledge system, protecting, and walking across the ledge to a second, left facing corner, beyond which it is possible to access Rhadamanthus. Down climb a body length on Rhadamthus to arrive a picturesque horizontal crack traverse which is followed past trees to a comfortable pedestal. 

P5: (3rd/4th/5th) Continue up through the boulders bushwhacking straight across until a gulley allows for a low 5th class descent through trees on somewhat loose, dirty terrain.  (This party belayed at a black birch about mid-slope which contributed to rope drag on P6, future parties might consider pushing this belay further if possible.)

P6: (5.7) Continue down to a wall of orange rock (rejoining the historical line?)  and travel around the corner to a series of dubious blocks that form a ‘trough-like’ descent ramp--gingerly follow the ramp to eventually climb around a corner and up a fragmented gulley to a sizable hemlock perched in a distinct alcove. 

P7: (5.7+) From the hemlock, climb left--navigating around a detached horn (edit: horn no longer in situ as of 2024) and down-climbing on a large hollow flake to a marginal stance beneath a small roof--to stem left, across a narrow but sparse slab to a 3rd/4th class reprieve. Continue laterally and belay just before the rotten orange groove. 

P8: (5.6+) Cross the groove and follow the considerably vegetated buttress to a stance, and continue left, beneath a large prominent block, following the ramp to top out at a sizeable hemlock.   

If this line sounds adventurous and committing, well, it is. While this entry has put fourth an honest effort to provide an accurate description, the cliff is detailed, changing, and vast. Despite the moderate grade—this is exfoliating traprock in every sense and shouldn’t be taken lightly. Considerable hollow flakes and loose blocks pose the risk of cut ropes.  Consider double ropes and wear a helmet. Place gear to protect the second on traverse. 

From a modern perspective, this line is R-rated for leader and follower based on stretches PG13 and R gear security but also inherent risk as a result of rock quality.

On a separate note, PI is abundant. 

This is a right to left girdle traverse

From Yvette/Frenchman's Cap walk north past a broken wall with a tree growing on a ledge about 3/4 of the way up the cliff. Continue north to another wall with an overhang about half way up. (See photos for start)

While the first ascent party undoubtedly climbed with little more than a few ring pitons—the modern trad climber will appreciate the luxury of a full double rack BD.3-#3 or equivalent and singles of BD Z4.0-.2, BD #4, and a full rack of stoppers supplemented by some offsets. 

Don’t forget to provide protection for your second on the downclimbed section of P3.