P0: Climb Prelude (5.8) as the access pitch.
P1: Same as for Gweilo - head up and left through the third class gully, followed by steep juggy climbing up and right. Belay at the left side of the twin inside corners.
P2: Climb the left inside corner on gear. Rarely climbed, and filled with ferns at present. At the top of the corner, traverse right to the Gweilo belay.
P3: Straight up from the belay through the difficult crack and chimney. Exit from underneath the large overhang -- the Lion's Head -- to a large belay ledge on the right.
P4: Continue straight up from the belay, moving left to a slab, and a final steep headwall.
P3 and P4 can seep for several days after rainfall, and P4 can get quite dirty after rain.
Same start as for Gweilo.
Pitches 1, 3, and 4 are bolted. For P2, you will need stoppers and small cams. Alternately, you can climb P2 of Gweilo if you wish to leave the trad gear at home.