War Zone 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Sean Bradley |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001 |
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Cory Fleagle cruising the upper section of War Zon...
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Description Another excellent line in the Friday the 13th area of the Nautilus. This line ascends the low angle face to the steeper headwall to the left of Friday the 13th and Deception. Climb up the interesting incipent cracks on the lower face before launching on the fun bolt protected face above. Good edges and crystals make for a thoughtful, balancy, and stellar climb. As always, the grade is debatable, perhaps soft at grade, particularly compared to Vedauwoo crack lines.
Protection Four bolts on upper headwall to a 2 bolt rappel anchor. This route requires supplemental gear to reach the upper bolted section, gear up to 2 inches. A small camming device (0 TCU or equivalent) is nice to protect the seam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.
By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003
| The climbing above the last bolt is the crux and borderline 'S'. At the very least there's big whipper potential. |
By nolteboy
Jul 22, 2005
| A Vedauwoo face climb that actually has good edges on it, this is a very worthwhile route. The last couple of moves really keep your attention! |
By Chris Beh
Jun 21, 2010
| There is an intermediate anchor above the 5.9 trad section before the hard climbing. This is a great route by itself, climbs more like a City of Rocks,ID route. I'd rate it PG13, and it requires some concentration above small gear. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2011
| Followed this up at dusk the other day, and this line is sick! Link the two pitches together and keep a cool head as the 2nd pitch is mainly quarter inchers and thin holds. Awesome though how they just keep popping up as you need them to keep it at the grade! Go straight up from the last bolt to find the anchors. |
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