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Wholly Holey 

War With A Rack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: www.srcfc.org
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 26, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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OK climb, but better than going to Iraq.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hike the main trail to the cliff. Look for a crack/corner system just right of the bolted prow of "Wholely Holy, Lord God Almight". With two possiblities at the start, select the nice-looking handcrack through a bulge on the right. Work up the steep corner above to the ledge atop the prow on the left. Set a directional piece (2"-2.5") to keep the rope hanging clean down the corner, clip the bolted anchor on the left, and lower off the left side of the prow. It only gets one star at the present time because of lichen and a couple of loosies that are easily bypassed. Otherwise, it is a nice crack that will take all the gear you can throw at it.

Addendum: one can also climb the bulging crack shown to the right of the climber at the start.


Protection 

Gear, double 1" - 3" cams or hexes, two-bolt anchor on top of "Wholly Holely".



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