BETA PHOTO: The upper half of the rock. Comanche follows the d...
War Path is still in progress, and is mentioned here because the obvious bolting could be misleading. The line is to the right of the big dihedral/corner system on the West end of Scout Rock. Comanchee Warrior is to the left of War Path and follows the dihedral corner. The first pitch of War Path follows up a short roof and slab to a mid point anchor. The second follows the spectacular fin in the upper third of the wall. The first pitch was redpointed by Bernard [Gillett] at 5.12a at the end of March, 2001. We are still working on the second pitch. This is certainly going to be hard and the line has great position.
QD only. Two pitches long. 50 ft for each route. A 60m rope descends from the top of the second pitch.
I did have a chance to work out most of the beta for this route in January (at last). The start to the second pitch is very hard. I could hold the positions at clips one and two after pulling through on the draws, but letting go for the lunges was very hard. After latching the horn by clip three the whole thing went down nicely. The fin at mid 5.11 on very cool moves on the left face. It had seemed that stepping above the fin might be impossible, but a short step right into the top of the slot yielded some bomber hands leading to a progressively easier finish. The real meat comes in getting established in the underclings just off the belay (that did work) and then in moving out of the underclings (that did not work). Personally, I never red-tag a route, so if someone picks this off before me, please let me know.
Couldn't do the move over the lip on first pitch, after success on other routes to the east, ~23NOV02, what's the deal? a right facing layback puts my knee through my face. Maybe new fingers is a better option, but when I finally got past this lip I was on the left side and far from the bolt looking at a ground fall, that'll teach me to get off route. --Ross
Bernard G. solved this PI problem in a flash with a long high step from the ledge to a point above his head - in one step!!! Ungodly flexibility. For those with more mortal limb structure, I'd try jamming all the way, including the feet. You can reach left from a good jam-cum-jug to a trough left and over the lip that will send you back right immediately after with a clip at your waist. One step up puts you eyeball to eyeball with the next clip. A bit tough, but stepping out left is apt to be spooky. PII spit me off yet again on 10/24/02 and probably has still not seen a clean ascent. I thought that the central problem lay in the biceps and proceeded to curl myself into oblivion for a couple of months before returning. N-Y-E-T!! No matter how hard I burl (admittedly not much) I still can't keep the feet on and make the reach right. I'd love to see how a good climber solved this. The lateral, iron-cross move on zip for feet and minimal, vertical crimpers is way burly, however, there is no doubt at all that it will link up one of these days to make a very cool sequence. Back to the training board....