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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.11 C0 [details]|
|FA: ||First half - Nathan Brown & Jonathan Foster / Second Half - Nathan Brown & Tony Spainhour|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Aug 31, 2012|
This is in my opinion easily one of the best long routes that I've done a long time. There is a good mix of climbing involved, from the fantastic splitter hand cracks down low, to some fun face moves in the middle, and the phenomenal diagonal corner up high. This is a route that certainly deserves some traffic, and it's probably one of the longest on the wall to boot.
There is about a 10' section on pitch 7 that we did not free since we were in a hurry and were consumed with getting the line finished in time (before the weather turned on us). It is clean now and will definitely go next chance I get - provided someone else doesn't beat us to it. Should be around mid 11 or so.
Also of note: the only trace of others that we found on the line was a very old rap sling at the base of the P-7 corner, wrapped around some delicate flakes. It appeared to be a rap anchor as there was no noticeable trace of an ascent - but who knows?
P-1 The first part of the pitch serves as the start for two other climbs that are both undocumented. One of them is old and the other is relatively new. Climb the low angle corner/ramp up moderate and somewhat chossy 5th class up to a point at which the rock greatly improves. Continue up an excellent splitter hand crack (right of the also splitter dihedral crack) to a ledge up and right at about the 190' mark. 5.9-
P-2 Climb the obvious splitter hand crack (middle crack) through a couple of bulges and good rest's to a thin finger crack crux just shy of the ledge. 5.11-
P-3 Climb the short and excellent chimney feature with a perfect hand/finger sized crack for pro. From stance at the top, move up and right to a small stance and belay. 5.10-
We climbed several variations for P-4, 5, & 6. The pitches listed below are on the short side but are the best quality options.
P-4 Climb up around the right side of the flake via easy wide crack to ledge below a left angling undercling flake. Move out this to a lieback and then back up and right to a 2 bolt anchor on the ledge. 5.9+
P-5 Move right and follow the middle corner (some vegetation down low) past some gear then a mild runout to another right facing flake/hand crack. Follow this to the top and belay at the upper ledge from chockstones (or #5). 5.8
P-6 Climb up and right past a tricky face move protected by a bolt and into the corner. Climb the fun left facing corner to a ledge and a 2 bolt belay. 5.10
P-7 Climb out right to the right diagonaling crack/seam. Follow this (brief section of C-0 for now) to a stance at the base of a phenomenal left facing corner. Follow this corner to a small belay stance where the corer changes directions. 5.10/11 C0
P-8 Climb the right facing corner through a roof and to a nice grassy ledge. 5.10
P-9 & 10 Climb the remainder of the moderate corners to the top. Seams and Dreams apparently merges in somewhere in this section. 5.8ish
Right of "Weather Or Not", and left Of "Seams and Dreams" in an obvious low angle ramp/corner.
Double set of cams to # 4 camelot, triple in hand sizes. Set and a half of stoppers. Possibly a # 5 camelot?
Tony following the phenomenal pitch 7.
BETA PHOTO: Red is the preferred route and orange is possible ...
Start of P-7
Another of the long corner of P-7
Tony at the end of P-1
BETA PHOTO: P-2 follows the middle crack
BETA PHOTO: War Paint is in blue. This perspective shows how ...
BETA PHOTO: Taken '11 season, but shows the first few pitches ...
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 3, 2012
Hell yeah guys! Looks like a fantastic climb. Glad your two trips treated you so well this year Nathan!
From: western NC
Sep 4, 2012
Thanks Nick! I didn't finish everything that I wanted, but it was definitely a good trip.