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War On Freedom 

War On Freedom 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson on November 10, 2007 (redpoint)
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 1,108
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Jul 1, 2010
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Photo by Keith North. Matt Lloyd making a ridiculo...
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  • Description 

    Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me. I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.

    A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to Bobsled (aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest. Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bolt. Here I was forced left below 8th bolt to Bobsled's right-facing corner. After making a move up the corner, get into a wide stem. Reach a thin seam crack with left hand & then a shallow, down-flaring fingerlock in a seam with the righthand & move back right onto the face. The crux is the next two moves with off a rounded lieback & a sloping hold. Continue with a dyno to a pocket followed by an awkward finish. To my knowledge, someone has climbed the route directly up the face past 8th bolt at 5.13b/c without stemming to the Bobsled dihedral. That individual suceeded a few months after my first free ascent. I thought I would find the info on this site. They deserve credit for being the first to climb the direct line.


    This route is between Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.


    10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Lucky Strikes.

    Comments on War On Freedom Add Comment
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    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 2, 2010

    See the comments on the Bobsled Direct Start.

    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 14, 2010

    Yes, Peter, I have read these comments written in August, 2008. But there is no mention of a redpoint. Secondly, I was told by reliable sources that someone had redpointed the direct line by early 2008.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 14, 2010

    I am pretty sure I remember hearing that it was redpointed by a guy named Chuck who has worked at the Spot, forgetting the year though.

    By mlloyd
    From: denver
    Oct 24, 2012
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

    Pretty fun route with a hard move down low and a sustained finish, being tall really helps. I think if you avoid the dihedral it's about 13c (pretty contrived) but otherwise sits in the 13b range.