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War On Freedom S 

War On Freedom 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson on November 10, 2007 (redpoint)
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 1,187
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Jul 1, 2010

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Photo by Keith North. Matt Lloyd making a ridiculo...
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  • Description 

    Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me. I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.

    A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to Bobsled (aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest. Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bolt. Here I was forced left below 8th bolt to Bobsled's right-facing corner. After making a move up the corner, get into a wide stem. Reach a thin seam crack with left hand & then a shallow, down-flaring fingerlock in a seam with the righthand & move back right onto the face. The crux is the next two moves with off a rounded lieback & a sloping hold. Continue with a dyno to a pocket followed by an awkward finish. To my knowledge, someone has climbed the route directly up the face past 8th bolt at 5.13b/c without stemming to the Bobsled dihedral. That individual suceeded a few months after my first free ascent. I thought I would find the info on this site. They deserve credit for being the first to climb the direct line.


    Location 

    This route is between Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.


    Protection 

    10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with Lucky Strikes.



    Comments on War On Freedom Add Comment
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    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 2, 2010

    See the comments on the Bobsled Direct Start.

    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 14, 2010

    Yes, Peter, I have read these comments written in August, 2008. But there is no mention of a redpoint. Secondly, I was told by reliable sources that someone had redpointed the direct line by early 2008.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 14, 2010

    I am pretty sure I remember hearing that it was redpointed by a guy named Chuck who has worked at the Spot, forgetting the year though.

    By mlloyd
    From: denver
    Oct 24, 2012
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    Pretty fun route with a hard move down low and a sustained finish, being tall really helps. I think if you avoid the dihedral it's about 13c (pretty contrived) but otherwise sits in the 13b range.