War on Drugs
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This route should be seeing more traffic now that a direct start (a la "Kid Charlemagne") is an option. This lengthy pitch ascends the clean, black-streaked, striated wall that continues above "Kid Charlemagne". What a line!!
From the rap anchors of "Kid Charlemagne", traverse right about 10 feet on a foot rail aiming for a nice horizontal that will take a .5 Camalot. Make a couple of slab moves up to a bolt (perhaps back cleaning the .5 after clipping the bolt to reduce drag), then continue straight up passing more bolts, a few opportunities for some decent gear, and a few rest ledges.
Though this route is well protected, expect some halting (read: thoughtful) moves above your protection. Big, clean falls are real possibility if you blow the sequence on several of these sections.
The route tops out the cliff on a clean section of featured rock, offering a nice view of Bolton Valley. Belay off the large, obvious pine about 30 feet from the edge of the cliff.
At the far right end of the big wall section, above the anchor for "Kid Charlemagne". One can also gain access to this pitch by climbing a somewhat dirty--but easy--5.6 to the right of "Kid".
Many QDs (a few double length runners to reduce some drag) and a single rack from a green Alien to a .75 Camalot.
By Derek Doucet
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A very fun pitch, deserving of the increased popularity the Kid Charlemagne start will no doubt confer.