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Arms Reduction T 
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Politics of Dancing, The S 
Truffle Hog T 
War on Drugs T 
Year of the Dog T 

War on Drugs 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011

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  • Description 

    This route should be seeing more traffic now that a direct start (a la "Kid Charlemagne") is an option. This lengthy pitch ascends the clean, black-streaked, striated wall that continues above "Kid Charlemagne". What a line!!

    From the rap anchors of "Kid Charlemagne", traverse right about 10 feet on a foot rail aiming for a nice horizontal that will take a .5 Camalot. Make a couple of slab moves up to a bolt (perhaps back cleaning the .5 after clipping the bolt to reduce drag), then continue straight up passing more bolts, a few opportunities for some decent gear, and a few rest ledges.

    Though this route is well protected, expect some halting (read: thoughtful) moves above your protection. Big, clean falls are real possibility if you blow the sequence on several of these sections.

    The route tops out the cliff on a clean section of featured rock, offering a nice view of Bolton Valley. Belay off the large, obvious pine about 30 feet from the edge of the cliff.

    Location 

    At the far right end of the big wall section, above the anchor for "Kid Charlemagne". One can also gain access to this pitch by climbing a somewhat dirty--but easy--5.6 to the right of "Kid".

    Protection 

    Many QDs (a few double length runners to reduce some drag) and a single rack from a green Alien to a .75 Camalot.


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    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A very fun pitch, deserving of the increased popularity the Kid Charlemagne start will no doubt confer.
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