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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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Bobbin' for Hobbits 
Breeze, The 
Bump, The 
Delirious 
Earth Angel 
Elfin Warrior 
Fireball 
Grand Opening 
Hobbitual Offender 
Infectious 
Irresistable 
Just a Fantasy 
Middle Earth 
Planet Eater, The 
Premonition 
Pull Me Up 
Red Hot 
S'Blended 
Silmarillion 
War Of The Worlds 
You Betchy It's Sketchy 

War Of The Worlds 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway, & David Luhen (1992)
Season: Morning Shade Until 1pm
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: Hendrixson on May 28, 2012
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Description 

The most striking line at Middle Earth, War of the Worlds ascends a clean, rounded, vertical arete. When the angle lessens one can veer left for the complete two pitch experience or pull a small overhang for the lesser, but still 5.12-, variation.

The climbing is a stark contrast from the overhung routes to the left. This one is all footwork. A true gem for the technicians.

(Note: I have only climbed the mini-pitch so I can't speak to the rest of the route)


Location 

War of the Worlds is the first bolted line encountered where the crag descends. It starts to the right of a grungy chimney and to the left of The Planet Eater.


Protection 

Bolts and chains. The mini-pitch is 12 bolts to chains.



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