Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Witches' Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
It's My Swamp T 
Nala T 
No Direction Home S 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 
Pumpkin Eater 
Romancing the Stone T,S 
Scarecrow T 
Teenage Terrorists S 
Tese S 
Tipskin Jihad S 
War is Love S 
Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 

War is Love 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Brian Shelton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,379
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 27, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
On the lower half of the route.

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on a big boulder that leans against the north face of Witches Tower. Make a high first clip and power up laybacks to series of technical face moves (crux). Reach the third bolt and move right to a short left-facing corner. Climb up passing two more bolts to the anchor. You can place a small stopper or Alien before reaching the anchor. Great climb on good rock. This should clean up nicely and in my opinion is one of the best face pitches in the canyon at this grade.

Protection 

Five clips and a small stopper will get you to a two-bolt anchor.


Comments on War is Love Add Comment
Show which comments
By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2006

Surprisingly good -- better than almost every climb at Sherwood Forest -- but by no means a classic. Needs brushing. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt.
By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2008

Made the not-so-clever decision of top-roping this route from the anchors on Romancing the Stone, located high on the arete formed by the N and W faces. It seemed like it would be the easiest way to top rope this and the other two routes on the N face by simply moving a directional runner each time (the RTS anchors are directly above Teenage Terrorists). But there is a lot of loose, funky rock between the top of these north face routes and the anchors on RTS. Our rope dislodged a good-sized block that exploded between my partner and myself. Suggest if you want to top-rope here, use the actual route anchors instead.

Btw, War is Love has some really good moves on positive holds.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jun 21, 2010

Disagree. Licheny and disturbingly close to the other routes. Not bad, just not that good either.
By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 24, 2012

I thought the sequence was fun and devious. Lichen didn't bother me.
This wall is a good addition to the canyon with crimpy, sharp, powerful moves.
By Raiden
From: Royal Oak, MI
Jul 18, 2012

Found the route to be a little dirty with lichen. As someone said above, the four routes on this wall are very close together - bolt lines are about 5-6 feet apart.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Calling this one of the best pitches of the grade in the canyon is pretty silly. There is about 10 feet of climbing on it, then a bunch of meandering up easy dirty/lichen climbing. The protection isn't well thought out either. The 3rd bolt should be lower so you can sneak a quick clip off the lower gaston. In it its current location, the stance is still bad, and if you blow the clip you will probably crater on the starting block. I don't think I would recommend it to somebody breaking into the grade.
By Rich Farnham
Jun 23, 2015

I thought this was a pretty good route but was a little confused between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Does the line continue straight up, or angle left to share a few moves with Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))? I tried going straight up but couldn't find a way past the blank spot that felt 11 b/c. Angling left seemed reasonable for the grade but seemed a bit off line.

As Slim said, be careful with the clips. The business is right off the ground on this route. I think blowing the 2nd clip could put you on the starting block as well. You clip from a decent hold, but I recall it feeling tenuous - possibly bad feet?
By JulianG
Jun 28, 2015

I thought the movement was good, but the rock didn't feel that nice. Also, I have done it after it rained earlier in the day. The rock looked dry, but I had a hard time with wet lichen at the 3rd or 4th bolt. The rubber did not want to stick to the rock.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 29, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The routes on this little section tend to seep for quite a while after wet weather, and that wet fluffy lichen is super slippery.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!