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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b/c [details]|
|FA: ||Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, June 2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Ron Olsen on Jun 16, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: War Horse. Climb up into a right-facing corner wit...
Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns have added yet another new route on the Northeast Face of Avalon. War Horse follows a line about 15' right of Thus Us, and is identified by three bolts heading up a face into a right-facing dihedral.
Start at the wide crack at the beginning of Thus Us, and angle up right to a bolt on the face about 20' up. Be careful making the first clip. Continue up past the second bolt into a right-facing corner with a flared hand crack at the third bolt. Make some difficult moves (10c or 10d) past the bolt to a ledge on the left. Continue up another right-facing corner with a thin crack (gear) to a tree with slings and rap rings. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree.
War Horse seemed slightly harder than The Art of War. Since the route is so new (rock dust below the bolts from recent drilling), it is still a bit dirty. My partner wire brushed the route extensively on rappel after we were finished climbing.
3 bolts plus small-to-medium gear. Bring some small wired nuts and cams from small Aliens to a #1 Camalot.
I placed a blue/green hybrid Alien just above the third bolt and a green Alien on the ledge above that. In the upper corner with the thin crack, I placed two small wired nuts (BD #5 and #7 stoppers), and a yellow Alien. I placed a #.75 Camalot to protect the last move to the anchor (could have used a #1 Camalot here instead).
At the top of the pitch there is a tree with slings and rap rings (the anchor for Thus Us), and a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree. Belay at the tree, or lower off the tree or the new 2-bolt anchor.
Ron Olsen at the crux by the third bolt. There's ...
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
BETA PHOTO: These are the new ring anchors at the top of War H...
|By Bruce Pech|
Aug 11, 2006
I actually enjoyed War Horse more than the Art of War. Ron's gear recommendations are excellent (although a blue Alien works as well as a hybrid Alien). After the first placement just above the third bolt, the trad climbing is never harder than 9 or 9+.
However, as Mikeneu noted, some expletive deleted stole the hangers and rings from the new bolt anchor. Until they're replaced you have to: (1) belay/rap or lower from the slings and rap rings at the Thus Us tree; or (2) sling the tree for pro and climb diagonally up left to the last two bolts and anchors on the Art of War before lowering (doable with a 60m rope with a few feet to spare).
|By Pebby Johns|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 25, 2006
Bruce, sorry to hear the ring hangers are missing. But not to fear, (as usual) we will take care of it and replace the missing hardware. Thank you for the information concerning this route.
|By Bruce Pech|
Sep 23, 2006
Pebby & Richard -- Thx for replacing the anchors. You guys (and Bob D, Vaino, Dan H et. al) should ask Culp and Neptune's to collect donations for the $$$ you've spent on bolts and hangers over the past several years.