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Crack Land
Routes Sorted
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Ancient Fright S 
Ancient Light T,S 
Ancient Sight T 
Art Of War, The S 
Blade T 
Crack Love T 
Crack Love II T 
Crack Love III T 
Enemy Within, The T 
Ghost Ship T 
Mystery Ship S 
Mystery Tour T 
Resurrection T 
Ship of Fools T 
Thus Us T 
War Horse T,S 

War Horse 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, June 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 16, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: These are the new ring anchors at the top of War H...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns have added yet another new route on the Northeast Face of Avalon. War Horse follows a line about 15' right of Thus Us, and is identified by three bolts heading up a face into a right-facing dihedral.

Start at the wide crack at the beginning of Thus Us, and angle up right to a bolt on the face about 20' up. Be careful making the first clip. Continue up past the second bolt into a right-facing corner with a flared hand crack at the third bolt. Make some difficult moves (10c or 10d) past the bolt to a ledge on the left. Continue up another right-facing corner with a thin crack (gear) to a tree with slings and rap rings. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree.

War Horse seemed slightly harder than The Art of War. Since the route is so new (rock dust below the bolts from recent drilling), it is still a bit dirty. My partner wire brushed the route extensively on rappel after we were finished climbing.

Protection 

3 bolts plus small-to-medium gear. Bring some small wired nuts and cams from small Aliens to a #1 Camalot.

I placed a blue/green hybrid Alien just above the third bolt and a green Alien on the ledge above that. In the upper corner with the thin crack, I placed two small wired nuts (BD #5 and #7 stoppers), and a yellow Alien. I placed a #.75 Camalot to protect the last move to the anchor (could have used a #1 Camalot here instead).

At the top of the pitch there is a tree with slings and rap rings (the anchor for Thus Us), and a new 2-bolt anchor just up and right of the tree. Belay at the tree, or lower off the tree or the new 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of War Horse Slideshow Add Photo
Ron Olsen at the crux by the third bolt.  There's a good flared hand crack in the corner, but not much else for the hands or the feet. <br /> <br />Photo by Bruce Hildenbrand.
Ron Olsen at the crux by the third bolt. There's ...
War Horse. Climb up into a right-facing corner with a flared hand crack. Work up and left to a second right-facing corner with a thin crack. <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: War Horse. Climb up into a right-facing corner wit...
This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Avalon, showing the new route WAR HORSE.
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
Cleaning the second bolt.
Cleaning the second bolt.

Comments on War Horse Add Comment
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By Bruce Pech
Aug 11, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I actually enjoyed War Horse more than the Art of War. Ron's gear recommendations are excellent (although a blue Alien works as well as a hybrid Alien). After the first placement just above the third bolt, the trad climbing is never harder than 9 or 9+.

However, as Mikeneu noted, some expletive deleted stole the hangers and rings from the new bolt anchor. Until they're replaced you have to: (1) belay/rap or lower from the slings and rap rings at the Thus Us tree; or (2) sling the tree for pro and climb diagonally up left to the last two bolts and anchors on the Art of War before lowering (doable with a 60m rope with a few feet to spare).
By Pebby Johns
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 25, 2006

Bruce, sorry to hear the ring hangers are missing. But not to fear, (as usual) we will take care of it and replace the missing hardware. Thank you for the information concerning this route.
Pebby Johns
By Bruce Pech
Sep 23, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pebby & Richard -- Thx for replacing the anchors. You guys (and Bob D, Vaino, Dan H et. al) should ask Culp and Neptune's to collect donations for the $$$ you've spent on bolts and hangers over the past several years.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Don't forget the small cams, Alien-sized, on this one. Our leader had to have some lowered to him from someone at the anchor.