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War Hippies 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Andy Marquardt, Brad Mattingly
Page Views: 1,019
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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awesome roof moves

Description 

Three pitches, crux 11c on second pitch. Great moves over a roof on last pitch.

Location 

Right of EGG

Protection 

bolts and gear


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By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Dec 17, 2006

Andy Marquardt, Brad Mattingly on FA.
By Jimbo
Nov 2, 2007

Did a 5.10ish sport pitch to start this one, (looked new)then did the next two pitches. Very good and fun climbing on all 3 pitches.
However, if the crux pitch of War Hippies is 5.11c, then the crux of Submission is .12a. War Hippies is way easier than Submission.
Again just my opinion.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 11, 2008

Warhippies has a trad first pitch, next to the bolted line, easy wide crack to the ledge then up the finger crack behind the oak tree (5.9+).

The sport start,Slate's Day Off, 5.10a, climbs the bolted arete/slab to the rebolted face above (moved one bolt, added a 5th) that Jimbo climbed.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 8, 2011

It is possible to rap these climbs (Gone Grey, War Hippies, Peacenik) with a 60 m rope. 60 m reaches the main ledge from anchors on top of first pitch of War Hippies and Peacenik. It also reaches the start of Peacenik from the top of the second pitch, after which it's a moderate downclimb to the main ledge, or a second rap. This second pitch anchor is what you need to stop at when rapping from the top.