Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Reservoir Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Face T,TR 
Errors of Our Ways S 
Goodro's Chimney T 
I Ran To Afghanistan S 
Iraq in the Back Attack S 
Reservoir Ridge T 
Unknown Trad Line T 
War Clamor S 
Unsorted Routes:

War Clamor 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: James Garrett 2002
Page Views: 2,764
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Doing well on here first time.

Description 

Simple face climbing to the ridge. This is the left-most climb, ignoring the chains 15 feet off the ground.

Protection 

2 bolts for anchors, and I believe 6 draws for the climb.


Photos of War Clamor Slideshow Add Photo
Coming up the final few feet to the chains
Coming up the final few feet to the chains
Just starting out.... I'm so proud!
Just starting out.... I'm so proud!
On her way up Face Climb 1.
On her way up Face Climb 1.
First bolt clipped. Can barely see a guy at the chain anchors at the top of the climb (middle of the top of the photo).
BETA PHOTO: First bolt clipped. Can barely see a guy at the ch...
Cody chilling at the top after his second lead climb.  Good Job Cody!
Cody chilling at the top after his second lead cli...
War Clamor 5/20/10
War Clamor 5/20/10
A beginner top roping up War Clamor
A beginner top roping up War Clamor

Comments on War Clamor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

5.5, maybe even 5.4. The ledges on this route are a bummer, but also keep the widely spaced bolts totally reasonable.

What is the deal with those bright shiny chain anchors 15' off the ground? I am going to chop those unless someone has a good explanation and paints them to make them less of an eyesore.
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
May 8, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I agree those crazy chains need to be repainted. Looking at them today, I could see they were painted at one time, but the paint must have worn off. I've used them to teach people to change the rope from going through draws to going directly through the chains. I didn't put those chains up, but they do seem good for that purpose. I'll try to remember to bring along spray paint next time I'm in the area.
By Nathan Fisher
May 24, 2005

The chains are now used by the University of Utah as a training tool.

This route can definitely be led safely without the bolts.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 24, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Are you serious? A training tool for a university?

That is sooooo lame.
By Nathan Fisher
May 24, 2005

Yeah, I was there on Saturday when an entire class of 10 students and 2 instructors spent 2 hours climbing up, jumping off, and having their belayer catch them. Also utilizing trees and a pulley with a rock being lifted and dropped. This was going on around the corner, and I didn't really pay too much attention to it. Interesting to say the least. It seemed like half of the students seemed more interested in the routes taller than 15 feet. So I mentioned the web-site as a great way to get out in the climbing world, and learn a bit quicker. I remember my brother telling me that was where good ole' Harold Goodro also taught him in his University days back in the 70's. Harold also had them climb up, and jump off to taste the fall, catch, and subsequent abrasions. Good to see the curriculum hasn't changed in 30 years (lol).
By Lee Jensen
Jun 25, 2006

I know those chains on the left look crazy, but they worked perfectly for me. I was able to belay my five year old on them while my wife belayed my 8 year old on War Clamor. I then switched over and taught my kids how to belay on the 15 foot chains. It made for a great family outing. Very safe, very easy. I can see why the U would use it. Thanks for leaving them there. That place is way better then the gym and twice as cheap.
By Tim Harper
Sep 12, 2012

This is a great beginner climb.