War and Peace  5.14a

238 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165 feet Consensus:  5.14a [details] FA:  Chris Weidner, June 20, 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Chris Weidner on Jan 3, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

War and Peace extends Simply Read for an additional 100 feet, creating a proud line up the entire Project Wall.

Clip the anchor of Simply Read (13d), then follow bolts up and right through steep and blocky terrain, with no good rest, until the wall's angle lessens to just over vertical. Trend up and left on thin moves until the 33-meter point (and anchors for Simply Redlined, 14a). Have a much-needed rest, then punch it for another 45 feet of steep, 12d climbing to the very top of the cliff.

To reduce rope drag I stick-clipped the 5th bolt of Simply Read, used loads of long slings, and four DMM Revolver biners along the way.

This is an exciting undertaking!

• A 100-METER ROPE OR SEVERAL LOWERS ARE REQUIRED TO GET DOWN.

Protection 

31 bolts, plus the anchor.

Several bolts are very helpful for dogging but will likely be skipped on the redpoint.