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 ADVANCED
Saxon Rock
Select Route:
Saxon Arete S 
South Face S 
Wanted Man S 
West Slab S 

Wanted Man 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: RMWright, Fall, 2009?
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Georgetown
Page Views: 462
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Wanted Man is a terrific little route on near perfect granite. Scramble up to the ledge below the face. A few small cams may be nice for the belay, but are probably not necessary. The moves up to and through the parallel seams are just too good to be true. Too bad this is such a small crag. This kind of climbing one might wish to go on and on. There is still some lichen to brush, but if you stay out of the corner and follow the bolt line the climbing is on very clean rock.

Location 

Face right of the arete.

Protection 

Quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By tbol
Nov 4, 2010

Richard,

People have been top roping these little climbs for years. Not that I am opposed to bolting them, they are fun. But... had you considered the local ethics before you bolted them and claimed a first ascent? I am not trying to be disrespectful. I am just a local who in fact learned to climb on these routes, definitely before 2009, and I know I was not the first to do so. Does it count as a FA only if you bolt it?

On a somewhat different note... considering you are developing the areas in Clear Creek County, I would like to get in on the action. I grew up in Georgetown and the Floyd Hill Area and know of some rocks that may be of interest. To my knowledge, I have some FAs around, too, but I haven't posted them. I am selfish and don't want my secret oasis to become popularized. It is inevitable though, so I might as well try and make my mark while I have a chance. Also, the climbing around there is very special to me, as this is where I learned and grew up. I would love to help you further develop the area. Please contact me and let me know if you want some help or a partner in crime.