Wannabe Protected (temporary name)
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Doug about to move onto the face.
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This a bit of a squeezed line, but it does go and protects with gear. While climbing with 3 friends, we sort of got to a bottleneck in terms of climbing efficiency, so this line seemed to ask if it could be climbed or led. The answer was yes to both. Given its cleanliness, it certainly could have been done previously. Yet, it seemed to deserve a better name than Unknown, so it is named...at least temporarily.
Start up in the chimney just to the left of Wannabe Bolter
, protect as high as you think the rock is solid on the right. Then find a low blue Alien placement. Commit to the face, find better than you might have expected holds angling slightly left. There was a spot where Jon thought you might fiddle in a #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot in a horizontal. There is a green Alien slot in a small, diagonal crack. Continue up to the anchor for WanneBe Right or Two
, then head to the anchors for Wannabe Bolter
#3 Camalot, #4 Camalot, blue Alien, green Alien, quickdraw. You may be able to fiddle in a #0.5 or #0.75 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the crack.
|Comments on Wannabe Protected (temporary name)
By Jay Eggleston
Jan 16, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
While you can go to the anchors of Wanna be a Bolter, you only get a short, easy traverse from the Wannebe Right anchor. I top roped the route, but the protection does not look very good once you commit to the face above the crack.