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John Saccardi arrives at the dihedral on P2 of Wan...
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The Veil is a castle-shaped rock with a center wall and a turret-like buttress on either side. Wanderlust climbs into and through the crack and corner system between the main wall and the left-hand buttress.
Hike up to the Veil as described and get to the center of the main buttress. The bottom left side is very low angle and has a few left-angling cracks that lead up into a crack and corner system short slot that are steeper; this is the start of the route Wanderlust.
Pitch 1: Pick the most obvious left-leaning crack and move up and left in it into a slot/wide stem with two good cracks. This is the Pitch 1 crux, and it protects with great stoppers (5.6). This is just to the left of a dead tree, perhaps 60' off of the ground. You can climb down and behind the trunk then pull the rope up between the tree and the wall to avoid drag. Move up and left through a series of cracks and dihedrals into a hugh left-facing corner. Belay on gear in this corner, or continue. 130'
Pitch 2: Climb the easy left-facing corner (5.4) for 60' up to an overhang and then up and right through the crux overhang, (5.7) for 30' on chock-stones and jams to the summit. This crux protects well with cams or a spectra-sling around a pinch-off at the top of the crack.
Pitch 2 variation: For more difficulty, take a few large cams to protect a finalvariant on the crux pitch. When you reach the final overhang, go up a few moves and then cut left on an overhanging, slanting off-width. (5.9)
Arrange an awkward summit belay. After summiting, step up and left to look down the fabulous Veil Slab, or up and right to chack out the beautiful yellow headwall of Diamond Head (spectacular at sunset).
Walk off to the West (left) from the summit though a fern-gully to a notch at the edge of the wall down a gully and back to your gear. The walk off is a bit jumbled, but is among the easiest and fastest in Eldo, unless it has been snowing. No raps are needed.
A standard light rack of stoppers and cams, with extra 2' runners. If you have a 70M rope, take a heavier rack and do this great 3 pitch climb as a single pitch.
The crux moves of both the first and second pitches are well-protected,
Tony Bubb starts up the steep but short and mellow...
By shad O'Neel
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Was hoping for a cleaner line than this route offered. The upper corner looks so nice from afar, but its short and very easy. The last few moves are nice, but I thought the majority of the climb was chossy and not that interesting.