This is one of the best routes on the formation, and certainly the route with the best name. Start at the same place as Direct South Face and climb up to the large roof. Traverse left under the roof, do an exposed move around the corner (crux), and climb up exposed rock to a belay. Continue to the top. Rappel off to descend
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 4, 2012
While no single move may be as hard as the crux on Direct South Face, the overall feeling here was much more sustained and more "heady." The step around the arete may cause you to pause.
Be mindful that after you pass the arete a fall puts your rope in danger of slicing down the arete, until you get a piece.