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Wandering Lunatic 

Wandering Lunatic 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 24, 2007
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Chris Duca on his onsight attempt.

Photo by, Tim ...


This route used to be a top-rope climb until someone bolted it a few years back. Now it is a stellar, bolt-protected face climb that raises the hairs on your neck, as well as forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.

Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.

Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)

Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.

Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)


About 100 yards to the right of Rockaholic up a not-so-obvious gully that turns into 4th class terrain.


7 bolts. Gear for the belayer.

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