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Wandering Lunatic S 

Wandering Lunatic 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 24, 2007

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Chris Duca on his onsight attempt. Photo by, Tim ...

Since 2011, the Access Fund Conservation Team has completed 114 stewardship projects, constructed over 35,000' of trail, built 106 rock staircases, & trained 3,000+ volunteers. Join or give and MP will match!


This route used to be a top-rope climb until someone bolted it a few years back. Now it is a stellar, bolt-protected face climb that raises the hairs on your neck, as well as forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.

Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.

Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)

Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.

Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)


About 100 yards to the right of Rockaholic up a not-so-obvious gully that turns into 4th class terrain.


7 bolts. Gear for the belayer.

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