Wandering Lunatic  5.10b/c PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88 Submitted By:  Chris Duca on May 24, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Chris Duca on his onsight attempt.

Photo by, Tim ...

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Description 

This route used to be a top-rope climb until someone bolted it a few years back. Now it is a stellar, bolt-protected face climb that raises the hairs on your neck, as well as forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.

Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.

Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)

Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.

Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)

Location 

About 100 yards to the right of Rockaholic up a not-so-obvious gully that turns into 4th class terrain.

Protection 

7 bolts. Gear for the belayer.