Waltzing Wern 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | AJ, Tom Murphy, Dave Evans |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | AJ on Jan 17, 2004 |
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Starting the 180' pitch.
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Description This is the prominent right-leaning crack in the center of the wall. The crux is a flaring handcrack in a red bulge 100' up. Above the crux, move right 10' to an easy crack leading to the summit.
Protection standard rack
The crux red varnish bulge.
| Yes, the route is 180' long.
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| Comments on Waltzing Wern |
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By Murf Jan 19, 2004 rating: 5.11a
| Long, steep, and harder than it looks. Crux moves are low percentage, better get it right the first time or end up dangling. |
By Anonymous Coward Sep 7, 2004
| An unclimbed 3 star 11a crack in Jtree? Wow! This thing must be a hike and a half to get to. You guys were stoked to find this thing. |
By tony grice Dec 20, 2005 rating: 5.11a
| This route was cool!!! Some loose stuff as can be expected ,but overall this route was super fun.Long route short crux. Go to the bulkhead and walk to the right around it. You cannot miss this gem. Hope your sport climbing legs are in shape for the hike. |
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.10b
| This thing is a sad joke. You guys got us good on this one. A giant hike followed by super loose rock to an unispiring and contrived crux. At least I saw a rat and some nice cactus or the whole day would have been waste. To give this 4 stars means that things like Wanger Banger, Illusion Dweller and Coarse and Buggy should be 50 stars. Avoid this travesty at all costs. |
By C Trudeau Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.10
| 120ft. of 5.8 followed by 10ft. of 5.10 is hardly worthy of " classic status". If it wasn't for the horrendous approach, I'd have bagged it upon first sight! This route will indeed clean up after about twenty more ascents, but I'd never recommend anyone ever slogging out there to bother! |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.10c
| This thing is not anywhere near being a classic. Loose, not sustained, way the hell out there, and overrated. Mostly 5.7 with a short 8ft section of "the business". Save your time and energy, this and the other routes in the immediate area are total piles and wouldn't be worth climbing if they were next to the road, much less a 40min uphill march.Nice bee hive in the crack for you nature lovers. |
By D. Evans Nov 4, 2009
| Wow, what a bunch of whiners! |
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Nov 4, 2009
| I agree with Dee Eee......does everything have to be diamonds and teflon?....alittle Josh loose rock is good for you;...keep you on your toes, off the plastic, and give you a taste of real climbing....sac up, hike for more than 15 min., and give Big Moe, The Mel Cracks, and The Beaver a break.....and when you hike up to these unpolished "classics"...maybe you might find your OWN pile to spray about.... |
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